looseconnection

[ATTACH=CONFIG]527121[/ATTACH]


I will share my opinion.

C channel steel hot dipped galv'ed, with all stainless steel bolt package. Self healing if scratched. I have dunked mine in salt several times this year, and not one speck of rust anywhere. Very little chance of a weld cracking, and much stiffer than an aluminum. I went with 16" wheels with E rated tires. Surge brakes, disk on all 4. Build time was spot on, and the company was very easy to work with.

Loadmaster out of Port Clinton Oh will have my biz from now on if I ever need a new trailer.

Was it cheap, no, but how can you put a price on being stranded in nowheresville.

This will be the last trailer I will have to buy for the 292.

looseconnection

Maybe you have a bad set, my wheels look the same and i have zero corrosion to date. But it does look like some body went ape sht cra on putting the lug bolts on with an impact gun with a socket just pounding at the aluminum.

Wildman_grafix

Why didn't you go EOH?

looseconnection

Got worried about not having a controller in all tow vehicles. Plus I have not had many issues with surge systems as long as they are maintained. .

I.D.C.E.

I am at the crossroads of rebuilding my tri-axle Hi-Tech because it is what I have to work with. Priced out maybe flipping the Hi-Tech and building a Manning but by the time I added what I wanted I was out of my range. So I ordered all new Dexter hubs with bearings. I had Kodiak Ecoated brakes on 2 axles which rusted over the winter. I wash the trailer down thoroughly after each dunk but still have issues with the light wiring always needed attention. Part of me wants to upgrade all the axles to a new higher capacity setup (3,500lb torsion tie downs currently) and run metal brake line instead of the old rubber and add brakes on all axles. I also want to go from 14" aluminum wheels with radial tires to 15" aluminum or steel with radial tires to help with the tire roll or scrub under tighter turns. Aluminum vs Steel... people say aluminum for salt water but they start looking like junk too, steels don't corrode...

I rebuild transmissions for a living so this is all basic stuff for me but what is the best to invest in? I am a firm believer a pay for what you get kind of guy but sometimes you can't justify things. Looks like a new trailer would be close to 8 grand.

I appreciate any input from ya'll.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Knowing what I know now, go with the new trailer. Money well spent if you plan to keep the boat for while. The Manning will load and tow better than what you have as well. I used to run my Surge Brake setup with the WD hitch exactly like that. Once I upgraded tow rigs to where I didn't need the WD hitch, I realized that my WD bars WERE (negatively) affecting my braking efficacy. I speculate that you are at the max capacity for your truck. As such, the EoH brakes that I'm certain you spec'd on a new trailer will be a HUGE improvement for you if you do a lot of towing.

Too Stroked

I couldn't agree more. I see so many really nice boats with what I'll just call "questionable" trailers under them. Folks that won't scrimp on hull construction and engine / drive parts, but then stick the cheapest trailer they can find under their new prized possession just don't make any sense to me. I'd propose that a failed trailer or trailer part can cause far more damage to a boat than almost anything you'll likely encounter out on the lake.

My father taught me a long, long time ago that "When you buy a cheap tool, all you get is a cheap tool." Same goes for trailers.

I.D.C.E.

Lol that was a short discussion! Lol

Sydwayz I would in heartbeat go that route if I could but I think it is just a little out of range for me especially after buying a boat lift for the boat this season. Unless I could finance a few grand depending on what mine would sell for I do not see it happening right now.

The trailer has towed the boat down to southwest Florida from NJ safely a few times and I have another trip planned for end of November.

So say we put the new option on hold, and I was just trying to improve what I had for the time being. What would be the advice on some of the questions I posted above in wheels, tires, brakes etc.

Btw yes the truck is up there # wise but has never once been the weak link in the rig. Even when the trailer brakes stopped working the truck stopped her without making me feel uneasy. The equilizer hitch helps the comfortability going down the road and I have just grown to like the way she handles with it. Im sure a 3500HD with a diesel would feel great towing a little boat but the Sierra Denali gives me everything I need on a daily basis and can handle the chores thrown at it when the time comes. I have 10k Enclosed trailer for my 3/4 Suburban (yes I know most people have race cars, I have a show truck that I tow and store in the trailer) and the Denali tows it fine and I see the difference of how nice electric brakes work and handle.

08 fastech 292

All's well that ends well they say.

The place that did my trailer brakes back in June stood behind their work. They replaced the broken brake line, bled brakes, checked all brake calipers, locktited and retorqued, and reinstalled the brake caliper that fell off. I converted the Vanguard hybrid oil hubs to grease with bearing buddies and out the door for $150.

All is good again.

Dave

eddie

iTrader: (7)

Clear out in box please, trying to send you quote on trailer. Or email me at [email protected] thanks for the PM.