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Old 03-27-2015, 08:41 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SB
We have something that works well up here, and it's free for all Residents. Rust ! It fills the voids so well, you'll never be able to remove the ball mount. But, you don't have to worry about someone steeling it nor steeling the pin, cause if the pin is gone, the bll mount still won't come out.

Lol and Doh !
I bought a (beater) truck last year that had spent 4 years in NH. I had to throw out the whole damn hitch.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:02 PM
  #22  
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Came across this in my searches.. kinda like what Sidways uses


http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:26 PM
  #23  
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I use a class V curt hitch, with a solid forged 2'' drop draw bar. I also have a 2 5/16 forged ball, that is rated for 25k lbs. like this one

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...2-5-8-in-black

A big old bad azz hitch isnt any good if you're using a basic chrome style ball rated for 10k lbs max like this one.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-5-8-in-chrome

This is drawbar I have. SO, I have a hitch rated for 16k lbs, a ball mount rated for 16k lbs, and a ball for 25k lbs. Pulling a trailer weighing 13-14k lbs.

http://www.reeseprod.com/products/ba...JTlZIVqmKhlajC

Last edited by MILD THUNDER; 03-30-2015 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:49 PM
  #24  
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FWIW, most of my stuff comes from www.etrailer.com

If not, I'll find it there, and source it via part number from a cheaper/clearance house on eBay or similar.
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