That may be because you have the taller gear set. Most of them had 4.10 rear ends which make them stump pullers but at the cost a few MPG's. I have 4.10 and I get 13 mpg normally and 9-10 mpg towing.

There is absolutely no difference in cranking the torsion bars vs different keys. The only time you need keys is when there is no adjustment left in the adjuster bolts. What is done in either case is an rotational adjustment...there is no loading the keys any differently. No matter if keys or adjusted or replaced with offset hex keys...if it goes up in front the truck will need alignment. And really, going up an 1" is about as much as you want to go as the tie rod ends will be pushing on the Pitman and idler arms at off angles which will prematurely wear them out. Also if longer shocks are not put on they stockers will top out and self destruct.

I have done multiple lifts on torsion bar trucks, a true lift the only correct way to go up on that style suspension. A knuckle type lift is the only way to go.

I was going to mention this Jrider but you know how the bashing goes I will shut up .

Mine was the 4.10 and I NEVER got 16 mpg. Saw 14 one time on the highway driving to my sisters in Indy at 65 mph.... I went nutz because it turned a 4 hour drive into a 5 1/2 drive.

If your towing a boat then I highly recommenf the Firestone Air Bags.

Wannabe

See post 12

I thought the cranked torsion bars rode worse than a truck with keys until I put my first set in and understood how they worked.

The one thing you have to be careful about is a lot of people that put keys in, will then crank them to achieve even more lift. Best case scenario, the ride suffers. Worst case scenario, stripped out axles and failing shocks.


As far as MPG, I have a 2500HD. I think the Avalanches are capable of better MPG due to the different tranmissions. That being said, I've never hit 13 mpg with my truck in 4 years of ownership.

Cranked torsion bars and/or keys will make your front end ride rough. If you want to do it right and keep the factory ride then this is what you need. Replacing the shocks and upper control arms will keep everything as close to factory but with the added ride height.

http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/co...ocks-1319.html

I have the 4.10 gears as well. I can pull 16-17 mpg easily up to 60 mph. Above that it tanks with the gears. 65+ mph highway is 11-12 unloaded and 10-11 pulling. I averaged 10.4 pulling to Kentucky and back. Not too bad really. Weight has almost no bearing on MPG with mine, but holy cow does wind resistance of whatever you are pulling or if there is a head wind.

on a half ton,,they ride better but on a 3/4 ton with the
kk tortion bars my suburban rides like ****...put the keys in and it rides like a caddy now..

THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CRANKING THE TORSION BARS OR INSTALLING DIFFERENT HEX KEYS. EITHER WAY YOU ARE CHANGING THE POSITION OF THE TORSION BAR. THIS IS SO BASIC. My guess is you installed new shocks with the keys that give it more drop out....either way it's a ****ty way to lift a truck. I'm done here.