I would think having to keep a 10' wide trailer off the shoulder and off the rumble strips or center line of any road other than the interstate would take a lot of concentration and you wouldn't be able to move over much for semis and other large oncoming traffic. I trailer a 13 wide boat twice a year with a 8'6" trailer and it's hard enough to get around curbs etc.

What about 6 individual axles, like the Hydraulic Boat Trailers have? Would such allow the boat to sit lower?

Just did a cross country over width 400SS. Its a pita! Permits each state, You must get a CDL and a usdot-non commercial ##. It was still worth it but not just hook um up and go. The 13'6" is almost non negotiable. Truck stop canopy's, wires, sign arches, everything is set up for 13'6'' clearances. You can bury your boat in the trailer but must clip the bottoms of the cross beams. The fender to top of tires can be set closer and the bunks lowered. The lower the drop axles you may drag the frame on certain ramps. Its a fine line whats good for bridge clearance vs will it launch? Mine is set at 19" keel to ground. Please be sure to go 17.5 trailer tires. These are commercial lowbed tires that will give you great service vs 16"s. Newer 16" trailer tires are crap. The overall tire height is the same.

[QUOTE=fossil fuel;4607083]Just did a cross country over width 400SS. Its a pita! Permits each state, You must get a CDL and a usdot-non commercial ##. ..../QUOTE]


I just hauled my 12' beam, 13' high cruiser a couple months ago (Bloomington to Lafayette for the OP) and only needed the $20 OSW permit. No CDL required if hauling your own personal boat. Just a current DL, banners for truck and boat, and flags. Went online to the state Motor Carrier site, registered for an account, then applied for the OSW permit. Filled out all the info about tow vehicle, length, widths, weight, heights and distance of axles spacing and approx weight at each axle. Also listed the route I wanted to travel. Was approved within a couple of hrs. Didnt cross a state line, so only needed the IN permit.

Very nice. I confirmed with Myco engineers and even at 10' wide, it will be a 100% road legal/ DOT compliant as any other trailer. The only difference is it will need to have the proper permits for wherever I am trailering it. The boat is 10'10" so I need these permits anyways and don't ever plan on pulling the trailer without the boat except when I pick the trailer up from Myco after completion. And even then, permits are not an issue.

The hardtop is fixed and permenant, I do not plan to remove it. I do plan to remove the radar and FLIR for travel, but those will be setup for easy removal. I hate getting bugs on them and would hate to have a rock kick up and hit the FLIR lense (Even when it is powered off with the lens facing down, it doesnt lock there and will end up getting exposed) so I would remove them even if height wasn't an issue.

Thanks! We have been researching a trailerable cruiser for the last 2 years. I had it narrowed down to Sea-Ray 330 Sundancer and Chaparral 330 Signature and then someone told me on a FB post to check out Monterey. I had always thought of them as an entry level boat, but I was wrong. The fit and finish was above the Sea-Ray and Chaparral IMO and probably a step below Formula. The Monterey had several things that put it over the top for us; the fact that the cabin A/C is standard and is 16,000 BTU compared to optional and 12,000 BTU for the other 2. The cockpit has an optional 16,000 BTU A/C for when the cockpit enclosures are up. The other 2 didn't offer this option. The generator is a 6.5kW fuel injected vs 5.0 on the other 2. The fact that it has a dual helm seat and a dual seat on the port side. The other's did not have this feature. There are other things as well but those were the big things

Im waiting on a measurement from my salesman but it looks to be atleast 8'. Even if I could cut down 6"-12" it could make a huge difference. The only issue then would be the fact that it comes standard with a full camper isinglass enclosure (The other 2 this was a several thousand dollar option) and I would have to sell it and have a custom one made to match the new hardtop height.

Im looking into cutting it down a bit but I need to decide pretty fast because I need to get the details finalized to Myco so they can get the design done and start the build.

Regarding the axles, it is speced with triple 7k lb torsion axles with 6 wheel EOH brakes. The full weight with full gas and water is 15,216 lbs. The trailer weight is 3,748 lbs so capacity is 17,252 lbs. Even with 500 lbs of crap in the boat, there is 1,500 lbs of extra capacity. We have 4 Mycos currently that I have trailered all over the place back and forth from Indiana to Florida and never once had any issues.

The issue is the chine of the boat only being able to get so low in the trailer before hitting the fender guards on the trailer. Even with an air suspension, you wouldn't be able to drop it because there is only 1/2" clearance from the fenders in Myco's drawings.

Im going to ask Myco about doing 4 axles with 205 75R15 wheels/ tires and see if there are any adequate for this amount of weight.

DOT rules are very complicated. Fortunately, I have to deal with DOT for our business and we have a DOT company on retainer for DOT training and compliance questions. Being that it is not for hire/ personal use of a personal boat, non commercial CDL licensing follows your state of residency. Indiana does not require any sort of non commercial CDL so I am good there. All I need to do is get the proper overwidth permits for the areas I travel through.

[QUOTE=US1 Fountain;4607157]Do you use Mercury permits for your permitting?

I applied for the permit myself online thru the state Motor Carrier Service. Its not as bad as I thought originally. Did make a few phone calls to the MCS office in Indy and they were as easy as can be as far as explaining the info require on the permit. A lot of estimating, as long as you don't go over the limits. Doesnt have to be exact, just not over.

Still not enough axle bearing.......

look at the rear axle, suspension, and brakes of a half ton pickup and then look at a weak azz 7k trailer axle, what a joke!

I would at least do triple 8k (same inner bearing as 7k but larger outer bearing) but the ticket really is the triple 10, 10hd, or 12k with 7000lb rated torsion rubber.

Why have I never had any issues with my other Myco's with 5k and 6k lb axles? Our 43 ZR is right up near the full 18,000 capacity with the weight of the trailer, and there have been 0 issues. Im not trying to argue, Im genuinely interested in this but why would Myco not recommend this from the get go?

Maybe you don't put on as many miles as I thought you were going to, maybe you are just lucky, no biggie either way but I can not stress enough about how confident I am with this subject. Myco is not perfect and they have many reasons to do what they do but that doesn't mean that there's not a better way. If Myco is God then there's no reason for this thread just ask them.

Its funny how trailers are always the least important. People will put so much into a boat, into a tow rig as a bandaid for an improperly built trailer, but the trailer is whats actually doing all the work! Its pretty simple cut and dry, trailers are under built and over priced junk, that's just simple fact. The brackets are universal pieces made in china, NEW Dexter axles come with Chinese bearings and seals, I can go on and on and on but I am really running our of patients trying to help people that really don't want to listen.(no offense to you personally). To me its like common sense when you look at a trailer and its parts, how much stress they are under vs what they are rated for compared to a simple half ton pickup rear axle and suspension. I could write paragraphs explaining every mathematical detail but it all comes down to money and the gamble that most people do not put many miles on.

At least go triple 8k axles for the larger bearing
Dexter Disc brakes center pin clip falls out allowing the pads to fall out and the pistons to hit the rotor.....$280 for a new caliper alone, so some RTV it in, Some swap to a coter pin, some replace with a nut and bolt. (Dexter was looking into an update)
Put oil bath seals in grease axles (Sydwayz taught me this, theres a reason they are $35 instead of $3)
14ply or higher tires if 16"
17.5 wheels and 16ply+ are even better
Make sure the wheels are actually rated for more than enough
EOH Disc Brakes
Full Size battery for break away instead of that little jet ski junk

The list can goes on just depends how much money you really want to spend. I sincerely hope everything works out good for you! Please post pics once its finished!

Between our 4 Mycos, I'm sure I have more than 30,000 miles on them.

I didn't realize that a $35k + trailer means a trailer is not an important piece of this package or that it's an inadequate trailer? I've never worried about price on these trailers, have always gone above and beyond on ordering them. If I did not care about the trailer, I would go with a random Loadmaster or equivalent. I don't think I have ever seen a cabin cruiser style boat (Other than maybe Formula and Fountain) sitting on a Myco. Most are sitting on generic production trailers.

FYI, this trailer is speced with 6 wheel EOH brakes, group 31 battery, 17.5" wheels with J rated 215/75R17.5 tires. That is 4,805lbs each so total of 28,830lbs capacity. Plus 2 spare tires, 2 spare hubs, etc etc.