Need some advice on our Myco trailer build. My wife and I have a new Monterey 335 Sport Yacht on order. We also have a custom Myco trailer on order for the boat. We are not marina people, we enjoy traveling to different lakes and wanted the largest cruiser that I could comfortably tow.

In talking with the Myco engineer, the keel of the boat will be at 20” from the ground with an overall trailer width of 8’6”. This will put the overall height (with radar and FLIR removed) at the top of the hardtop at 13’11”. The beam of the boat is 10’10” so I will need over width permits anyways, not sure if over height is a big deal at that point? I bought a trucker specific GPS that i can put my overall height in and it auto routes me only on routes where the bridges are tall enough. My other option is to get the keel down to 15” with a 10’ wide trailer. This will put my height at exactly 13’6”.

What are everyone’s thoughts on this? I think I would rather be at 13’6” and have a wider trailer. The boat is still 5” wider on either side so I don’t think it will make any difference there.

Obviously this setup isn’t for everyone and I’m well aware of that. We also have 3 large performance Boats that I have 30k miles combined from trailering then to various lakes and back and forth between our home in Indianapolis and vacation Home in Florida. The Nor-Tech is 10’ wide and 13’6” tall to the top of the FLIR so the only real difference with the new boat is 10” wider and possibly a wider trailer. Thanks for any feedback!

Sunsation collaborated with Performance Trailer to build some "special" low slung trailers for their 43 back in the day so they could get them launched on some specific ramps in the greater Michigan area. I would look to find out exactly how they did this. I would absolutely take the lower trailer option.



Also, is there any way to make that arch fold down forward? Maybe Monterey can't do it, but others do could possibly refabricate it do so.

The only way to get it lower is to spread the fenders on the trailer further apart with longer axels and shorter side wall tires. The deadrise is 17 degrees so it can’t sit as low in a normal trailer as a boat with higher deadrise.

There is no way that I see to be able to modify it to lower since it’s a full hard top (which was a major selling point for us vs a normal arch). I haven’t drawn it on CAD or anything but it seems if it lowered forward, the rear of the hard top would just be back to around the same height. Might have to draw it out though and see.

Other than needing a wide load permit when trailering without the boat (will likely never happen except when I pick up the trailer from Myco), there shouldn’t be any real difference with having a trailer wider than 8’6” right?

The 10 foot will be an issue with most roads not maintained by the state. Interstates have a standard 12 foot width, but some go down to 10. Get on county roads which some are barely 10 feet and that's counting the shoulder, some even a bit less. My dump truck is 8.6 and if it was 10 in some places the tires would be off the shoulder.

Maybe a 9 foot wide and shorter tires, add another axle maybe.

13’ 11” is definitely too tall. My buddy tows around his 400 formula and his height is 13’ 5” without the radar. Even at that height he has taken down power wires in our neighborhood. You have to be careful driving around any residential neighborhoods. I would go with the wider trailer for sure. Also wide load permits suck but they do come with routes for oversized vehicles

Would be ruff hinging a hardtop, but if it could be done, it would clear the issue

I am in the middle of a custom trailer build for our new boat. I had this discussion with the reputable builder that I chose to build the trailer. We were discussing my desire for a trailer that would allow me to get through a garage door height of 10 feet. I asked the question if spreading the trailer width beyond legal width of 8 feet 6 inches would solve the dilemma. The builder said it would, however, he warned me that he would not place a "This vehicle conforms to all applicable federal laws..." label on an overwidth build. He told me that he would have to label the trailer as "Not for highway use". This label description could possibly cause you problems with vehicle inspection and registration requirements. I would check this possibility out with your state authorities before committing to a over width trailer build. It might be smarter to stick with a legal width trailer and rely upon permitting and routing requirements for an oversize load.

Could you use spindled wheels instead of axles and would that lower the trailer ?

13' 6" is legal max height, any thing over requires permits and designated routes laid out by DOT. they will run you all over so a 10 hour trip will take 20 hours with the detours. also I have been under bridges marked 13' 7" many times and that does not allow for if the road was repaved and not remarked (has happened more than once). if you run with out the permits and hit a bridge or other structure not only will you own 35' of scrap fiberglass you will be on the hook for repairs to the highway. we were 12' wide with the race boats and they once screwed up the permits as over height. it was amazing the crazy route they had laid out for us, it would have added days to our trip.

I wouldn't want to run over 13'6" if its avoidable.