Must have options for a trailer build.
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: St-Hyacinthe, quebec, canada
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I happened to back in a kind of shallow ramp and needed to back so much so the boat could float, my Electric pump for the hydraulic brake was partially in water, fresh water by the way. Needed 1 new 1500$ pump a year the last 2 years. Pump was mounted equal to the bottom of the frame. I will move it forward and higher this year cause this is gonna be hopefully my third and last 1500$ pump...
myco trailer by the way
myco trailer by the way
#15
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Electric brakes and water don’t mix well. When they get wet, sit, then get hot, sit and get wet, they tend to stop working. Fairly quickly. EOH. Electric impulse Works a pump and that pump pressurized the hydraulic lines for the calipers. Very Reliable. I have Kodiaks on my Past 3 trailers.
#16
Registered
iTrader: (5)
Yes night and day difference. I was shocked when I first towed with EOH Disc. Even bigger difference than electric are to surge. Once you own EOH you will wonder how anything else is legal on larger trailers
#19
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
trailer
Consider a driver guard assembly with lots of lights! You can make 'em swingable or removable.
This one swings open.
This one has a removable cross beam.
This one swings open.
This one has a removable cross beam.
#20
Registered
ALWAYS BUILD A TRAILER FOR A BOAT LARGER THAN WHAT YOU HAVE NOW....
With that being said, DEMAND Kodiak Calipers and Disc Hat over Hub brakes. All of the Kodiak calipers are derivatives of GM car brakes and will allow you to buy lifetime warranty ceramic pads from your favorite auto parts house as well as pins, seals and pistons. When you have a brake failure... you do not want to have to wait a week or pay more for next day shipping for a $30 rebuild kit at Autozone. If you do have a caliper failure ever, removing the disc hat will save your hub to get you home.
Buy Mac's Tie-Downs and NOTHING ELSE to secure your boat to the trailer. Get their Y-strap for the bow and their flat-hook straps for the stern.
Tire Tie Down Y-Strap
Ratchet Strap w/ Flat Snap Hook, Flat Hook or wire Hook
I do not like welded trailers as ALL of them after some time, even my Myco under the 43' Scarab AVS, will eventually begin to crack if you travel a lot and dunk your boat at a ramp. Having adjustable bunk mounts on 2" square tubing with extruded HD mounts will give you a lot of options to perfectly load your boat.
DO NOT THRU-BOLT THE BUNKS. Start with a 5/16" stainless lag screw from the bottom and monitor them over time. They will tell you when the bunks are starting to let go... then replace the loose ones with 3/8" screws. After those begin to fall, its time to replace the bunks, not do gelcoat repairs because your bunks just one day came loose while loading/launching and that bolt caused damage.
I've learned a lot about trailers in over one-million miles of hauling boats Nationwide for a living. I learned fast what doesn't work and unfortunately most boat buyers will spare no expense with a boat survey while never considering the same investment to be assured the trailer is roadworthy.
With that being said, DEMAND Kodiak Calipers and Disc Hat over Hub brakes. All of the Kodiak calipers are derivatives of GM car brakes and will allow you to buy lifetime warranty ceramic pads from your favorite auto parts house as well as pins, seals and pistons. When you have a brake failure... you do not want to have to wait a week or pay more for next day shipping for a $30 rebuild kit at Autozone. If you do have a caliper failure ever, removing the disc hat will save your hub to get you home.
Buy Mac's Tie-Downs and NOTHING ELSE to secure your boat to the trailer. Get their Y-strap for the bow and their flat-hook straps for the stern.
Tire Tie Down Y-Strap
Ratchet Strap w/ Flat Snap Hook, Flat Hook or wire Hook
I do not like welded trailers as ALL of them after some time, even my Myco under the 43' Scarab AVS, will eventually begin to crack if you travel a lot and dunk your boat at a ramp. Having adjustable bunk mounts on 2" square tubing with extruded HD mounts will give you a lot of options to perfectly load your boat.
DO NOT THRU-BOLT THE BUNKS. Start with a 5/16" stainless lag screw from the bottom and monitor them over time. They will tell you when the bunks are starting to let go... then replace the loose ones with 3/8" screws. After those begin to fall, its time to replace the bunks, not do gelcoat repairs because your bunks just one day came loose while loading/launching and that bolt caused damage.
I've learned a lot about trailers in over one-million miles of hauling boats Nationwide for a living. I learned fast what doesn't work and unfortunately most boat buyers will spare no expense with a boat survey while never considering the same investment to be assured the trailer is roadworthy.