Brad Christy

Wildman,

Ah…. Going back and rereading it, it makes sense now.

Kewl. Good to know.

Thanks. Brad.

Plowtownmissile

Late to the party but Hydrastar 1,600 kit on a triple axle with brakes on every axle. Old coupler is thru-bolted.

Brad Christy

PlowTownMissile,

Pretty much my plan as of now. I don't think I can place the controller module right where you've got it, due to my tailgate, but that's about it. I'll probably just shift it back so it clears the tailgate. I'll likely make a mounting plate that will mount across the two main beams, right behind the coupler member, and mount both the controller module and the battery to it.

I'm currently waiting for a money thing to sort itself out and I'll get the kit on order. I'll post results.

Thanks. Brad.

shunter2005

To the OP, what vehicle are using to tow with? What year? It does make a difference, especially if it's a GM product.

Brad Christy

Shunter,

2021 Chevy Silverado 1500 RST, 6.2L, 10sp. Prewired for electric brakes.

What would be the incompatibility issue?

Thanks. Brad.

Brad Christy

Shunter, others,

I just spoke with HydraStar. The compatibility issues have been software related with the '23 and '24 GM trucks, causing the truck's brake controls to not engage the HS controller. According to the tech, my '21 should be fine. Worst case, they have an adapter module that should resolve the issue.

Given the simplicity of the functions involved, I think this compatibility issue is a case of our vehicles getting way smarter than they really need to be. Just apply a variable 12v current when the brake pedal is pressed. How hard is it?

Thanks. Brad.

shunter2005

Well, it could be several things. I'm assuming that you have not installed EOH yet, correct?
1. Once you install you could find it works perfectly. "Supposedly" all OEM brake controllers manufactured after 2016 were/are EOH capable. I say "supposedly" because not all controllers after 2016 would work with EOH without a controller assist module (CAM) or electric brake magnets wired inline to get the controller to recognize the EOH actuator. No real explanation as to why, but it is known they didn't. No GM vehicles with the OEM controller prior to 2016 would work without the CAM/magnets. They were built for electric brakes only back then.
2. You should have a 30A fuse in the fuse box under the hood that provides steady 12v power to the trucks 7-pin connector at the rear of the truck. Test the 12v at the 7-pin before you start to make sure it's hot. If not, check the fuse. Not sure, but it could be #63 under your hood. Your fuse number might be different than my '19. Several years GM did not provide a fuse and used a dummy.
3. Very uncommon, but once in a while you could get a bad actuator. Hydrastar, as stated, has great customer service and they will make it right. Again, rare occurrence. If you are sure you have power to the 7-pin on the truck and your actuator does not work, it could be bad.
4. TRIPLE CHECK ALL YOUR GROUND WIRES. Make sure they are making good contact and are tight.

There is nothing wrong with any of the EOH actuators out there. There are many Hydrastar, Dexter and Titan (which is now owned by Dexter) controllers and everyone has different opinions of them. Like many on this thread, I'm a Hydrastar guy, but I would have no aversions to using Dexter or Titan. I just liked the look of the Hydrastar. I would also suggest the plug and play version for easier installation regardless of the brand.
Final thing. Check what the DIC tells you. Plug into the 7-pin with the motor off and then start it. If the DIC says "Trailer Connected" or similar, you should be good to go. If all is good wiring wise and it still doesn't work, I would go buy a couple of electric brake magnets and wire them into the blue and white wires of the harness after the actuator. If that works, you can leave them as is or then buy a proper CAM to install. It would be strictly for aesthetics.

​​​​​​​Couple of pics of my set up. Trailer and wiring box has been powder coated silver now.

Brad Christy

Shunter,

All good info. Appreciate it.

As I stated, according to the tech at HS, I should be good. They said I'd know by the time we get the brake lines bled if it will work or not. I may go ahead and order the module, just in case. I can always send it back if not needed.

I plan on mounting a plate on the top of my main beams, where they come together, just behind the coupler member, on vibration isolating "lord mounts", then mounting the HS actuator to it. I'll probably make this plate out of 1/2" black Delrin. It's plenty strong enough, will never corrode, and form taps make virtual nylock nuts for tapped holes. I saw a pic of someone's setup that showed the breakaway battery mounted to the winch stand, and I liked the aesthetics and functionality of that.

​​​​​​​Thanks. Brad.

Brad Christy

Guys,

On second thought, after acquiring actual dimensions, the actuator will be mounted directly to the center beam, between a cross member directly behind the coupler member and the mounting plate for the winch mast, and the breakaway box will be mounted on the winch mast.

Now to just sort out immobilizing the existing sliding coupler. That will likely have to wait for disassembly and assessment. I've got my ideas.

Thanks. Brad.

Wildman_grafix

When I bought the Hydrastar kit they had started to put the adapter module in all of them. They said it was just easier.

Do they not do that anymore?