Man these thru hulls are a blast to install. They are nice pieces they have a 1-1/2 tube x 1-1/4 NPT and the base is 3" x 5". These are angled at 30 degrees. I cut a pattern from a piece of pressure treated 1" x 6" and drilled a 1-1/2" hole thru it at 30 degrees. My plan is to take this board and position it where it goes inside the boat and drill the holes using the board as a pattern/guide glass over this board later to give the thru hulls a little more sturdy base to sit on other than just the hull of the boat. After the holes are drilled I will counter sink the four outer holes from under the boat. Install the screws and install dowell rod in the counter sunk holes to complet the install except for trimming the tube. If these slow me down 2-3 MPH and keep me cool that's ok with me...To be continued

I would think the leading edge will need to be flush with the bottom and the trailing edge will need 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The attitude of the boat will probably play a role too.

Going to be at Texoma for labor day?

I'm trying to get it going for labor day, I got the thruhulls laser spoted today, drilled the holes, sanded the old paint out of the bilge around where the boards will sit for the thruhulls for a good seal. This ought to get us plenty of water now.

Also drilled the 3/4" holes on top of the extension boxes for the drive water to act as showers. If these slow me down 2-3-4 MPH and keeps me cool I'm fine with that. They ended up 19" from the transom and mounted 4" on each side of center directly on the pad. Sorta tricky drilling at 30 degrees towards the front one way and what ever angle the pad is at the other way.

Holy chit. What are you going to use to fill the void areas where the tubes arent tight to the hole?

Looks like that port drive indicator cable needs help too!

DON'T SINK!!!!!!

Have faith brother, I'm purdy good with fiberglass. She won't sink when I'm done.
Yeah that cable is weak. I told my buddy to look at those and change them if needed but I guess they got over looked too.

Make sure you put some good ball valves on top of those!! Would suck if a hose comes of/loose and you can't stop the water!!!

Any idea on how much you are going to let stick down past the hull?? Do you have water pressure bypasses??

Yes I have a nice stainless steel 1 1/4 ball valve for each side. I searched diffrent places and get different answers on the tubes, I guess it depends on what it likes. I've seen them flush, flush front and tapered to 1/4-1/8 rear sticking down and flush with a groove / channel cut in front of the tube in the fiberglass. I have adjustable bypasses on my strainers pre set at 25 psi. I am going to go flush front and tapered to 1/4-1/8 rear sticking down.

VV, I should have known that you did your math!!:ernaehrung004:

Hee, you forgot you were talking to the king of parts.

VV, you the one stirring up those earthquakes in Okla.??