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Dude, talk to a machine shop. They may be able to sleeve that block.... save you about $2500.
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2873700)
You can quickly identify it at the upper waterpump bolts. On a shorty, the distance from the upper waterpump bolt to the deck of the cylinders will by ~0.200", and the tall deck is ~0.600", The difference is 0.400"
The tall motors have longer rods, which produce more torque - not noted for revs. Pushrods are also longer. I don't think the 454 was ever offered in a tall deck - the 366 and the 427 were offered both ways, but I think the 454 and all later Mark IV blocks are all short deck, but not sure. Is exactly what he has ,,,and there the only ones with the oiltube in front !!!!! And it is a Gen IV !!!!!! |
Sorry about your engine.
I would not suggest spending the $$ for another tall deck 454 block. You can likely use your stroker crank in a short deck 454 or 502 block with the right combo of rods and pistons. If not, I'd suggest buying an assembled 502 shortblock and use your heads. You will need a new intake with a short deck block but that can be had for under $200. |
I feel your pain!! I trashed a motor last month!!
Like mentioned above, if the rest of the block checks out ok, you can have it sleeved. If it is done right, it will last!!!! Good luck!! |
Originally Posted by daredevil
(Post 2874022)
VV,,,,,the 454 was offered as a talldeck ( 454 TRUCK BLOCK )
Is exactly what he has ,,,and there the only ones with the oiltube in front !!!!! And it is a Gen IV !!!!!! |
Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2874052)
I thought the 454 tall deck blocks were Bowtie and Gen V but with the Gen IV blocks were either 427 or 366 truck engines. Maybe if he posted the casting numbers we could sort this out.
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The tall deck engines are awesome for reliability. They allowed the big trucks to use a taller piston so that they could add rings, and change the rod angle so they were better suited to running down the highway at high rpms for thousands of miles. Some of thise engines would go 250000 plus miles in a dump truck truning 3500-4000 shifting gears all day long.
Perfect for the marine world, just hard to find. If I were going to spend that much cash, I would just switch over to a tall deck aftermarket block. Then yo ucould have a tall deck 502 or whatever bore yo uwanted engine and really have a beast. Crank and rods would be the same. You are all ready buying pistons and a block, and the rest of the stuff goes on top. There might even be a taller piston out there somewhere. Seriously good way to build an engine. Crank in the tall deck 454's etc were still 4". |
Originally Posted by jeff1000man
(Post 2874146)
Seriously good way to build an engine. Crank in the tall deck 454's etc were still 4". If you have the extra cash to build a tall deck then a 540. The boat is for sale though so... |
sell your blown motors parts and buy a new or newer take out i,ve had a lot of boats rebuilding a marine motor is hard because the load on the motor and the high rpm if it,s not perfect the motors keep shaking apart you might get a couple of runs but you,ll allways be working on it
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Casting Number
The casting number is 14044807 also I have the numbers off of the cam and the pistons if anyone could help me figure out what they are the numbers on the cam are CR13H000036 , 200486, AND 13-18-00 the number on the piston is 6063AS the crank is a Lunati and the numbers on it are BB421,L1722D6, 4.375, 2575GM
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