class6

I don't own a Velocity and haven't seen the cabin. But I would look into a wired Remote for controlling the stereo head. The Remote I have is 100% water proof. And much smaller and easier to find a good mounting location

90profx

Radio has been relocated to a custom aluminum mount under the dash, radio facing aft. I don't have a remote for the radio as it didn't come with one when I bought the boat, but that doesn't mean I couldn't find one on Ebay. I don't listen to the radio stations, I use a USB thumb drive that has all my music on it and also plug my phone in the the radio's USB port and stream SiriusXM. Radio mounted photos forth coming soon.

90profx

Tuesday morning update:

As I continue to work away on this boat, I've run into some interesting things. When they build these boats they must have bought all their hardware in bulk by length for a price break, i.e.: 10-24 screws for the engine cover/sun deck hinge 3.00" long (going through 1" thick material ??????????????) leaving a surplus 2" of thread). I can't believe this was cost/time effective, even with power tools/drivers, it still takes extra time per fastener and the vast majority of the screws are all very generous in length. Takes forever to remove those nuts......

Original screws I removed (left) replaced with screw on right, still had a 1/4" of surplus thread.




Update on the radio placement, I felt this was the easiest location, out of the way & the weather elements but still accessable via remote control. Bracket was made & Tig welded from 1/8" thk aluminum plate, blasted, primed and painted epoxy white.
Wiring is still in progress so excuse the hanging mess in the background......






Lenco Hatch Lift is due in today so I'll be jumping to that project and coming back to the rest of the wiring once the lift is in and working.

90profx

New LENCO HATCH LIFT installed and operational, Now this is what I call an open hatch !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

90profx

Ok, before anybody calls me out......... I'm trashing the 496 MAG engine cover because of the unsightly slot that was cut in it to clear the hatch lift in its full down position and replacing it with one I found on eBay cheap $100, but mind you it's for a 496 MAG HO.


Original engine cover slotted:


New HO cover:

90profx

Just a little tid-bit....just removed the padded sun deck and all I can say for the fiberglass work is....what a P.O.S. design that is. It's totally weak, no good support bracing anywhere. It's a wonder it hasn't cracked in allot of placed yet. Fiberglass over wood where the hinge bolts through is loose, glass is cracked. This is due I think to the angle of the hatch lift, basically pushing the hatch away from the transom. Just when I thought I was getting close to being done.....:-(

Getting out the fiberglass and resin, looks like there's work to be done. I did notice that when I installed the new LENCO hatch lift (off center) the hatch lifted out of square much more than I thought it would due in part of the lack of any material or support bracing glassed into the hatch frame work of the hatch itself, so I'll be adding another LENCO hatch lift to square it up. Pic's will be forth coming once I start.

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Yeah my engine cover had the same slot done by Velocity. I sold it on ebay and remounted the hatchjack. I relocated mind to push more evenly in the center of the hatch. You're doing good work keep up the good job

90profx

Thank you sir, greatly appreciate the complement.

90profx

Update:

Epoxy I had on the shelf was way to old to use so had to order a new gallon and some cloth, so while I wait for those to arrive...........Doing all new interior lighting as well, total LED's throughout. The previous owner had installed some Transom LED lighting as seen in this pic when I pulled the drive off, at about 8 watts each their ok, but I like "BRIGHT", I'm going to up the wattage to "2" 36V x 100W LED's housed in a custom made holder/heat sink housing capped off by a magnifying glass lens. I built these on my last boat and they are insanely bright.

This are the old ones:


Sneak peak at the 100W LED's, note the 1" huge LED chip below the lens mounted on a large heat sink, these baby's run "HOT" and they'll light up a football field..........:

90profx

1/28/16 Update:

Getting ready to cut out this rotted panel. Don't really know what the function of this was but its pretty much useless. I'm going to replace this panel with an aluminum piece of bar stock 75" long that will be bolted & glassed into the hatch. Looking to add some rigidity right to left across the hatch, if any of you have ever removed your sun pad, you know how flimsy the hatch is without additional support. Also addressing the mulitude of holes that were put into the bottom of the plastic sun pad backing by adding an aluminum sheet that will serve a couple concerns, some new material to screw the hatch to and additional support bracing to spread the loads more evenly. All the open space/cavities in the fiberglass hatch will be filled with pieces of XPS Foam Board for further bracing. Like I mentioned before, it's a wonder that the hatch didn't crack a long time ago. Sure some of this maybe over kill, but it's apart and there's no sense not doing something to make it better while I'm in there. More pics to follow when I start glassing in some rear hinge braces and foam board. I realize your thinking.... WOW, that a lot of extra weight he's adding but it's really not more the about 25 pounds total.