Thanks for topic detour- looks like a lot of work which turned out great on your boat!

OK, back to the nuts and bolts of this thread. I pulled the T/Body off, it needed some serious cleaning. Pulled off the IAC as well as word has it it subject to failure, sure enough, it looked pretty nasty, so replaced that as well. Both are going back in tomorrow. I've decided to replace the OEM Flame Arrestor with a K&N Filter, I don't really believe nor do I care about all the air flow hype and claims made through use of their filter, my objective for this is nothing more than supplying the motor with a clean air supply.

I've got another little fun project on the drawing board, remember its a "FUN PROJECT", nothing serious.....

Always liked the up-down RPM's of the blower motors, sounds so cool at idle, so the project is:

Have your EFI motor idle like a "Blower Motor Does" for under $30., interested ????

REMEMBER, IT'S JUST FOR FUN WHILE I WAIT FOR WARMER WEATHER.......... Still in the R&D stage but here's a peek. Gear reduction motor with a Teflon cam roller on an eccentric arm, timed with just enough lift to bump the throttle off idle during every rotation. Fully ON-OFF switchable from the helm. Video clip forth coming while running "IF" it ever warms up enough for me to paint my drive and put it back on again.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...j.jpg~original



http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1t74hsqc.mp4

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...q.jpg~original

When you shut it off will it ever stop on the high side of the cam and keep your idle up?

No, you can't see it but there's a micro limit switch driven off a relay that will shut it off when it's off the throttle by approx. 90 degrees. The only time it would be used anyway is while at idle at the dock or just idling around. Upon any failure that can happen on anything there's always the kill switch as plan "B". There's really not much increase in idle even if it were to stop on throttle, just enough to tach it up for a sound change off idle.

Ok, test ran "Blower Motor" mod yesterday while bleeding the new Hyd. Steering, crappy phone vid, but you'll get the idea:

http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums...psta5nwkar.mp4

Sounds Great!

Padraig

i like several of the ideas and plans. I have been seriously looking into full hyd steering from by Mayfair but really spendy( 2400.00) .That is the full kit single ram single bravo. I'm curious about that project or is that system just for outboard? My boat can get a little squirlly at times with no steering assist. Boat actually feels better with chop rather than smooth water. it can chine walk pretty bad about 65-70 and makes me suck my seat up if ya know what i mean????
Question about internal exhaust flapper, is it necessary because is too damm noisy when engine hatch is open and motor running. I have some friends with performance boats and havent seen or herd this in other boats. One of the other mods im thinking about doing is having my ECM reprogrammed. Whipple is just down the street from me here in Fresno. I actually talked to one of the guys that works and tuns for Whipple last weekend at the lake. He told me it would not make the boat any faster but just run smoother and more responsive.

Sorry i posted last comment before i read entire post.I'm curious how well that steering works.
A quick question about your interior side lights. How does the glass come off? I have been wanting too change to LED but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get the damm thing apart so thank you VERY MUCH for the post and pics. I m thinking about a colored LED bulb (blue) for the side lights for a cool effect and leaving the others white . The work you did on your boat looks AWESOME. Well Done Sir !!!!

Look in the front section of this thread for instructions on how to remove the lens covers/glass.

The SeaStar Hyd Steering I installed is absolutely great, like driving your car no slop in the wheel what-so-ever. Best thing I ever did and for a working man's price with no extra holes in the transom as with the other kits.....:eek:....:D You will have options as to the ratio of your Helm Pump, so choose wisely here, I chose the higher ratio Helm (most expensive obviously :D) to reduce the number of turns needed to go from lock to lock (port to starboard), it was the right choice as these boats are a little finicky in the handling department at slower speeds, that's where it helps the most, quick response to get on pad and stay there too.

Through everything we do in life there always seems to be give and take, the outboard mount (on transom) steering kits don't utilize any room in your engine room, the SeaStar kit does, it's minor but thought I'd mention it. As I also stated there in this thread on the steering, there is a part that will have to be made (that doesn't come with the kit) to make it work properly, keeps the shuttle valve properly aligned, this is addressed in this thread as well.