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-   -   Road to 60mph in a Baja 232 Islander (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/baja/231626-road-60mph-baja-232-islander.html)

warrantykiller 06-02-2010 12:28 PM


Originally Posted by jeffswav (Post 3124543)
I can bairely spin a 25 to 5200 RPM with 500+HP, stay with the 21. With everything stock and running well 55 MPH would be on good days, loaded down maybe 53. If you want 60 that will cost you a bunch of money. The engine you have is designed for what it is. If you are planning on keeping the boat a long time you could do a complete rebuild with the good parts or you could sell it and buy a used 502. You could get a shortie drive or raise your x dim. Anything you do will cost you thousands of dollars. I would get what you have working correctly before start thinking faster speeds. Upgrades are for winter projects anyway, run it for the summer and have fun.

I've been drag racing for years now and was thinking cheap was in the thousands. I was thinking heads, cam, intake and carb=2500$=500hp I could buy my buddy's blower carb and ignition setup for about $2500 too. I know I could bolt on those parts in a weekend but I would like to buy up parts for the first cold snap. Thanks for the help so far and keep it coming. I usually buy used parts and wait for good deals. I am just trying speed it up a bit not build a race boat...yet.

birdog 06-02-2010 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by warrantykiller (Post 3124073)
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...2bottompic.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...brokenskeg.jpg
I plan on getting the bottom paint off and it came off the back and sides where it wrapped up onto the graphics fairly easily. It looks like a couple layers thick and chipped under the top layer as well. Is the outdrive hurting my speed to? the prop says baja marine on it so i am guessing its 13 years old but other than the very dull edge seams ok a few small chips and dings. Do i need a lower unit spacer...what is first to help improve my slip numbers. I am hoping to try these other props wed morning. Thanks for your help in advance.


start with the basics...Yes the bottom paint is slowing you down....Yes, Your torn up Skeg is slowing you down..Yes the bent up anti Cav plate is slowing you down...Yes the Oxidation on your lower unit is slowing you down...Yes your banged up prop is slowing you down...

Fix what you have before throwing $ away on other crap:drink:

DareDevil 06-02-2010 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by birdog (Post 3125384)
start with the basics...Yes the bottom paint is slowing you down....Yes, Your torn up Skeg is slowing you down..Yes the bent up anti Cav plate is slowing you down...Yes the Oxidation on your lower unit is slowing you down...Yes your banged up prop is slowing you down...

Fix what you have before throwing $ away on other crap:drink:

I agree 100% , but where do u see a bend CAV. plate ??lol:party-smiley-004:

And i still say u can spin a 330 to 5 K RPM..hahaha:grinser010:

birdog 06-02-2010 02:06 PM


Originally Posted by DareDevil (Post 3125390)
I agree 100% , but where do u see a bend CAV. plate ??lol:party-smiley-004:

And i still say u can spin a 330 to 5 K RPM..hahaha:grinser010:

Post #6.....It helps to read his posts....:drink::drink:

warrantykiller 06-02-2010 06:13 PM

Done I will agree to get that all fixed before I do anything else. Now another question. If all those things are in play wont my speed pick up to 55ish and rpms increase more? that friction should be slowing the rpms down right? after that stuff is fixed will i be turning close to 5000? does that leave room for a labbed 23? I have read that a labbed prop will turn a hundred rpms or more than its untouched version. if you gain a couple hundred rpms then go up 2 inches in pitch which slow you down 400 i should be running a labbed 23? or am I overthinking this?

Wet Vett 06-02-2010 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by jeffswav (Post 3124884)
If the boat was from Hawkeye you may have a raised x dim, a lot of the boats they ordered +2". However the speedo's are almost alway 2-3MPH fast, mine was.

Yes I purchased the boat from Hawkeye as they took it in on a trade. The boat sold new in Colorado state and because of this I believe there is different gear ration in the drive. I don't believe I could spin a 27 pitch prop otherwise. Hawkeye ran it before I took delivery and commented on how impressed they where with the numbers.

Next time it get it serviced I will inquire about the x dim and gear ratio.

jeffswav 06-02-2010 09:13 PM


Originally Posted by warrantykiller (Post 3125308)
I've been drag racing for years now and was thinking cheap was in the thousands. I was thinking heads, cam, intake and carb=2500$=500hp I could buy my buddy's blower carb and ignition setup for about $2500 too. I know I could bolt on those parts in a weekend but I would like to buy up parts for the first cold snap. Thanks for the help so far and keep it coming. I usually buy used parts and wait for good deals. I am just trying speed it up a bit not build a race boat...yet.

Before you touch the motor you will need exhaust. That will run you about 2K. You will need a oiling system upgrade about $500. Forged rotating assembly, heads, intake, carb, cam, springs, rockers, ect... That all depends on how much HP you want. If you want 500HP you will need to go roller and to do it right that will run about 2k. It ads up real quick.

warrantykiller 06-03-2010 12:15 PM

I just looked at the 1997 prop chart for baja and it says my boat only came with a 300 hp motor? Is that right?

jeffswav 06-03-2010 12:30 PM


Originally Posted by warrantykiller (Post 3126272)
I just looked at the 1997 prop chart for baja and it says my boat only came with a 300 hp motor? Is that right?

Merc changed how they rate there HP. They used to rate at the crank, now they rate at the prop. There is about a 10% lose in in the outdrive.

warrantykiller 06-03-2010 01:11 PM

so its 330 crank 300 prop?


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