conneroutlaw

the mechanic told me he is very familiar with putting m1 procharges on, so i hope everything goes well.

conneroutlaw

i just put full hydraulic steering on it right before i blew the head 1st time out. I have a question, Is full hyfraulic steering alot different then a steering cable in performance. I mean manuverability. When I had it out and trying to dock it, It felt like i was wrestling a cow and the steering would let loos alittle and jerk. What is normal to expect from full imco hydralic steering.? is it smooth at all speeds or jerky at parking and docking speeds

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

Head gaskets do fail faster on supercharged applications VS N/A low compression applications as far as head shifting around but should still last 100's of hours unless your motor is detonating itself apart , improperly assembled or is overheated.
Your engine should have quality head gaskets with the proper finish on the block and heads surface, Cometics/MLS are nice but I have ran felpro marine gaskets with more boost than you run and they have been fine also. You should have head studs if you do not want as many chances of problems. Procharged motors blowing thru carbs OFTEN have tuning problems as far as lean or rich spots at some point, since it isn't possible to re-jet your carbs with different sets of jets at every 200 rpm interval and manifold setting's like a efi set-up allows so it is very important to run your motor on the water with a afr gauge on it, if you find a lean spot that can't be richened up without making the rest of the rpm bands pig rich that might be a spot that you just don't drive at. You have made several post mentioning your mechanic that cast doubt on his abilities, if this guy isn't good at supercharged motors/tuning AND EXPERINCED I can see alot of frustration and money wasted in your near future , Smitty

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

Is this a marina mechanic? ALWAYS run 93 no matter what, revs have nothing to do with blowing a head gasket, detonation does, gotta get timing under control, what was base timing set at? WOT timing? better not be more then 28 total....

GEt someone who knows this stuff or you will be out of the water a alot.....

conneroutlaw

yes it is a marine mechanic. the other mechanic who is working on the boat has instaled m1 prochargers before and has experience with them. i always run 93 in the tank. i just thought by over reving it without a rev limiter would put extra stress on the headgaskets and weaken them

machloosy

Your head gaskets are blowing because of the cylinder heads literally lifting and stretching the bolts. You need (as everyone has already said) a very good gasket, and higher strength head studs like ARP. But you need to look into why the heads are lifting. More than likely you are seeing detonation which is the gas charge exploding due to cylinder pressure prior to normal ignition spark. This causes a ton of heat and like someone mentioned before, will melt or burn a hole in a piston. Obviously you need a boost gauge, and as others have mentioned, an a/f gauge. But most importantly, the whole package needs to be "tuned" each engine and supercharger need a unique tune to work together. You will be rebuilding a blown motor in a season or 2, that would have lasted 4-5 seasons or more had it been properly tuned in the beginning.

obnoxus

yep,,,,in the dash a/f...fuel pressure,,,and if it was mine,,,,knock guage

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I woukda add egt gauge to the mixture... that will tell.you the most.... in boats u can reach 1450 degrees but that's about it... sterling says their 1550 HP engines will run 1500 degrees all day....at least that's what I read... my buddy's formula is around 1400 when beating on it... need lots of fuel and a good intercooler

conneroutlaw

I just talked to the mechanic and i feel comfortable about his ability after talking to him, i mentioned everything to him all of you guys mentioned and he is well versed on it. He is putting apr studs on the head gaskets and looking for the appropriate type of head gaskets for my situation. He said there was alot of water in the engine and he hopes no more damage was done or started. So he suggested if it was him to tear apart the whole engine to make sure no other damage was done and to correct any damage that is present or to preventive mantaince to stop and thing that may of started. I am crossing my fingers and dotting the eyes on my check book as we speak. So i will be out of the water for 1 to 3 weeks depending if no damage or damage and waiting on the machine shop to correct anything if necceasry. I pray it is just going to be a good situation when he opens it up and it was just a safty check not a fixing situations, but a bare amount of damage was done to the heads so i hope it gets better. Plus he is going thru the super charger and tuning it up and putting a msd box on it, and correct the steering.

I would like to get on the lake before the end of the season. i have been on the lake 2 hours this season , and the boat hasn't seen a coat of wax or a cleaning yet.. Full tank of gas though


Please wish me luck with the findings

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

what did spark plugs look like??? if you find a destroyed valve make sure you check cylinder walls, if it didn't have inconel a valve probably broke and took out a cylinder wall, you MUST have inconel valves