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I believe the imco scx lower uses just one hole correct? I don't have a lower yet, my upper conversion kit showed up Friday
[ATTACH=CONFIG]564943[/ATTACH] I know I can't fill the one hole because the drive uses it for cooling itself. I get what you mean about it slowing a boat down, disturbing the flow of water around the lower. So you think I should try the drive as is alone before the thru hull? Should I even try opening the hole in the lower at all or just leave it alone? |
And as far as what lower I'll be going with, I really hope I can get one of the SCX lowers to work good on this hull for reliability purposes. I'm not putting this motor and all this work in to the boat to have to baby the throttle.
But then there's 3 different scx lowers! Ugh |
So tell us how you like the "horizontal" trim tab alignment. I have read pros and cons to both schools of thought. Thinking about this horizontal tabs would make leveling the boat in pitch more effective (trim vs. drag) but if roll control is more of an issue aligning the tabs with the hull would be more effective. Did you notice a difference one way or the other? I suppose the big difference would be just moving to a much better (faster) tab than the original Instatrim.
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You might be able to get away with an SC lower which would be faster. I understand though going with the SCX lower if dependability is the main goal.
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Originally Posted by BajaDan
(Post 4531107)
So tell us how you like the "horizontal" trim tab alignment. I have read pros and cons to both schools of thought. Thinking about this horizontal tabs would make leveling the boat in pitch more effective (trim vs. drag) but if roll control is more of an issue aligning the tabs with the hull would be more effective. Did you notice a difference one way or the other? I suppose the big difference would be just moving to a much better (faster) tab than the original Instatrim.
The way I see it with them mounted horizontally they should also be able to provide help with chine walk at high speeds with less contact with the water. The outside corner of the tab would touch the water first and correct the roll or sway rather than the whole tab dragging in the water. I think this only works when the tabs are relatively large for the size of the boat. Again this is just the way I see it working. There was a article that wildcard 09 told me about in powerboat I believe about a test bob Teague and others did on some factory race boats. One was a 25 outlaw with a Merc hp500. They reported that the outlaw did have some chine walk at the top end and their suggestion was mounting the tabs horizontally rather than parallel to the hull to correct it. |
Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me
(Post 4531116)
You might be able to get away with an SC lower which would be faster. I understand though going with the SCX lower if dependability is the main goal.
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Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4531128)
There was a article that wildcard 09 told me about in powerboat I believe about a test bob Teague and others did on some factory race boats. One was a 25 outlaw with a Merc hp500. They reported that the outlaw did have some chine walk at the top end and their suggestion was mounting the tabs horizontally rather than parallel to the hull to correct it.
Dan |
Got a buddy with an Eddie Young blown 540 in a 26' AO cat running an SCX upper with an SC lower. SecondWind here on OSO. He's been running this setup for a couple years now with no failures. He doesn't baby the boat. He just went back to Eddie this winter for a head swap (aluminum vs. iron) and a smaller pulley to up the boost.
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The article is quoted in this thread:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/n...ngle-heat.html Did not work out for the original poster, it seems. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4531369)
The article is quoted in this thread:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/n...ngle-heat.html Did not work out for the original poster, it seems. |
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