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Well, I guess OSO is really paranoid about other boating sites. Fill in the *** with powerb***nation
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Torey, I think you could probably get your own reality show if you'd filmed the whole build.
But I don't think I'd watch it. Too much like my own problems. lol. |
Thanks dan I will check that out.
I'm flattered Jeff. "On today's episode, Torey argues over the phone with Kevin about engine pre lubing. And then, more incorrect parts show up!" Cue dramatic music. I think we have a winner here. Calling discovery channel now. |
You'll need your own version of Farmtruck and Azn for comedic relief from the drama. Maybe Tim Pavlovic and Darr are available for that?
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Yea someone that I can strap to a swivel chair with an air bag to spin it. Maybe attach the chair to the propshaft on the scx and see how long they can hang on...
This boat might be a lot like the farm truck, hardware that far exceeds to value of the vehicle it's attached too... might surprise a couple in a race though |
:lolhit:
I enjoy every one of our phone calls, with or without an argument! :ernaehrung004: Glad you are making good progress bud can't wait till you splash her! |
When I built my blower motor for my 242 Formula, I upsized all the lines. When I got to the pickup, I also found that they dont make one. I brought the stock one to a local hydraulic shop. They made me a 5/8 diameter pickup for $20.
Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4547808)
Today's issue was the fuel pickup. The Whipple install manual says all fuel lines must be -10 (5/8"). Well you can put a bigger barb fitting off the pickup on the tank but it's still going to be choked down at the 90 out of the fuel tank. So I planned on removing the stock pickup and putting a bigger one in the tank. Tried loosening it up with the center floor section still in and reaching through the access port. This led to snapping the aluminum anti shiphon valve off which then led to fuel pouring out the pickup because i fill the tank for storage. Not too much fuel got out while I was thinking "why the hell is this happening" and then put my finger over it to stop it. Then I thought well now I'm in a tight spot. Thank God my neighbor was home fertilizing his lawn. I was able stretch my long ass neck up enough to get over side of the boat to yell to him to come lower the front of the trailer. It stopped leaking right as the tongue jack was bottomed out all the way down, thank God again. So now I knew I had to remove the center floor again, which requires removing the seats. Thankfully there's no motor in the f'n thing so I was able to put the seats where that usually goes. The fuel level was still so close to top at the rear of the tank that if I put just a little weight on the plastic tank fuel would start pouring out again. So while damn near doing the splits and spanning the floor opening I was able to get a pipe wrench on the pickup head now and break it loose while keeping the bushing from spinning on the tank the pickup threads into. After I got it loosened up the fuel was still so close that another small amount over flowed out of the bushing. After I got the pickup completely removed from the tank any small amount of sloshing of the fuel would cause it to burp out the bushing more. I put rags over the bushing,carefully got out of the boat and ran to the hardware store and got a 3/8" pipe plug to plug the hole for the time being. Moral of story: Don't make fuel tank modifications with 89.99 gallons of fuel in a 90 gallon fuel tank. Hindsight is 20/20 right?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]566537[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]566538[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]566539[/ATTACH] So after I get the pickup out then I start searching for "bigger" ones. No luck. WTF. So short of putting an adapter on to fit 5/8" hose off of a dinky pickup and going the ignorance is bliss route I'm not seeing how this would work. Decided to call a pro. Call young performance marine, talk to Eddie again, had a good conversation in which he told me I'm not crazy, he's seen plenty of pistons fried etc because of improper fuel flow, blamed on tunes etc, and that they make their own "bigger" pickups because the stock ones are too small. Anyways Eddie will be welding me a proper stainless steel pickup together hopefully this week yet that will have a complete ID of a -10 fitting. Glad I decided to jump on this part of the project today because it got a lot more complicated than I thought it would've been.... |
I'm still laughing,thinking about you in the boat holding the fuel back.
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7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by class6
(Post 4548119)
I'm still laughing,thinking about you in the boat holding the fuel back.
On today's episode... Oil thermostat housing and do I need an oil bypass valve. took the thermostat housing off to investigate a good spot to put the oil temp sender. Discovered the oil thermostat works a little different than how I thought. Basically the thermostat is "open" when it's cold and the oil can go either through the cooler as well as to the filter and back. Once it gets hot it "closes", forcing all the oil through the cooler before it goes to the filter. See how it's open on both sides of the valve, this is cold [ATTACH=CONFIG]566586[/ATTACH] Hot, valve closes one passage forcing all oil to go through cooler [ATTACH=CONFIG]566587[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]566602[/ATTACH] I'm sure a lot of guys already know how this works but I figured I'd share for those who don't. My original plan was to put the oil temp sender in the thermostat housing, there's currently a 1/4 pipe plug in the oil passage out to the cooler. May put it in the plug right next to the oil pressure sender, this would be a little upstream from the oil thermostat spot. Maybe a little bit hotter coming right from the oil pump. Guess it comes down to which spot I'm confident that it's not blocking too much of a passage,increasing pressure. This is looking into the thermostat housing through where the thermostat would be. The threaded part at the back is where that plug is. [ATTACH=CONFIG]566588[/ATTACH] Plug with red sealant on bottom of housing [ATTACH=CONFIG]566589[/ATTACH] Plug "upstream" [ATTACH=CONFIG]566590[/ATTACH] Also, looks like the oil bypass valve was removed and plugged in the block oil filter mount. Not sure how I feel about a bypass valve on something that should be getting an oil change every 25hrs anyways... [ATTACH=CONFIG]566591[/ATTACH] ^you're flipping my pictures upside down now? Really!? |
I take some pics of the jig this weekend. I haven't been to the lake house since Jan 20th. We had a pipe break and flood the place for a week without knowing. Only contractors have been there. Going up to see what's going on.
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