From what I've heard bajas mainly the 25s do not react well to a shorty lower by themselves. The extension does help make the boat feel bigger in rougher water.

Next step in this project is to find out where the water is hitting the lower.

Does Wilson blueprint these lowers? Bet it would make a big difference in this application.

IMCO blue prints these as well, want to say 800 to 1000 but double check that

For some reason I had 2 - 3k in my head. 800-1000 would be much better! Maybe over winter if I have everything else dialed in by then.

I'd like to update more often but I really haven't been checking in much since the forum was reformatted. Anyways I decided to stop screwing around and bought a 30p Maximus. Completely stock except for 5/8" of the diffuser being cut off, a normal part of the labbing process anyways. I'm going to try and run it and get some baseline numbers and then probably take it to Bblades to have them lab it and get some more rpm out of it. Lately we've been using the boat so much that I just don't have time to mess around with dialing in the upper end numbers. Too busy cleaning it, filling cooler, emptying cooler, filling gas tank, emptying gas tank. Got a vacuum/boost gauge mounted in the helm where the old trim tab gauge used to go.

Changed oil on the engine last week, just over 20hrs this season. Will be changing the gear lube this week as well. Hopefully get my home made electronic trim sender mounted on the drive as well.

Pulled some friends in Saturday night on there behemoth formula 400ss. 10-15mi 2.5hrs, motor purred like a really big kitten the whole way.

Site blows but we still need updates!

Well I don't have a lot to update on other than everything is working well. I got a 30p Maximus that I have to get some baseline numbers with and then probably take to Bblades to have labbed.

Gear lube looked great when I changed it. Strained it through a strainer and found zero pieces of metal. There was a little fuzz on the magnets. The amount of fuzz should be less the next time the lube is changed now that the drive is broken in.

I designed and made my own electronic trim sender which so far has been working perfectly. The sender uses a 5v sensor and is attached to the drive and a arm attaches to the gimbal ring which operates it when the drive is trimmed. Wires are routed through the gimbal housing and go through the top of the housing much like a factory bravo sender wiring. Wish I could post a picture of it but...

Glad to hear your getting to use it. Even if it's loaded with cooler. I guess you haven't figured out how to post pics either. I'm lost and gave up with it.

Yea I've gave up with the pictures too. Too bad.

The only thing im annoyed with is the tarnishing on the top cap of the SCX. Called imco and they said "yea it'll do that, you can take a aluminum cleaner and it should clean up." It's some sort of anodizing that has turned brown and gray. Anyone else with an SCX have this issue?

Over 50hrs this season and no major issues! Overall happy with the setup. Not the fastest with the scx but it's turn key and go, no worrying about drive failure.

Finally got out with a buddy to run the 30 maximus I bought in July. The only difference over a stock prop is this one has 5/8" of the diffuser cut off. Well this prop did not make the boat feel good. Lots of stern lift and chine walk. Again runs up to 5000rpm - 80mph and hits a wall.

Put my 30 Bblades baja recipe labbed bravo 1 on and had her up to 83 @5900. The boat is much more settled and feels great at speed. But slip is almost 25% at wot and cruise is much worse, about 10mph slower at the same rpm than the max. I'm sure the scx lower is the reason for high slip as well as added drag but I'm not giving up on it yet. Still shooting for upper 80s and a labbed smaller diameter 5 blade might do the trick, but it'll have to wait for spring...

hope this video has better resolution than what its showing for me
https://youtu.be/y0tDckpMkcEn