articfriends

iTrader: (1)

Like just mentioned, your over thinking it, if really worried pull fuel pump fuse and crank till you see oil, your motors not that fragile!

IGetWet

Being that I drained every bit of oil out of this thing that I could, even the lines to the remote oil filter, I'll get a small electric or even a hand pump to get some oil back into everything. Priming the oil system before every start I would agree is excessive yes, but I can't see it hurting doing it after oil changes or after a motor has sat for 6 months. Just easy peace of mind for me...

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

Pull distributer and prime it with a priming tool, thats what i do for a new engine on the dyno when its new and completely dry. Your going to wsnt to set the timing to be sure anyways, Smitty

IGetWet

I could do that if I take the Whipple throttle body off, but I'm thinking it'll be easier to pump in from remote filter out hose. No distributor, cam sensor instead. Timing is set in the pcm, not adjustable.

IGetWet

So I happened to read in my service manual that the stock weak springs (125lb +/-6 on the seat) have a blue stripe on them, then I remember from when I checked if rockers were upgraded that the currently installed springs had a blue stripe on them. Then I thought damn, the springs were probably replaced but with OEM spec PAC springs when the Whipple was installed.
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So after making a number of phone calls to different builders and getting a number of different opinions I decided to get into her and replace the springs with a seat pressure that would make me more comfortable. So I got intimate with her and pulled her apart basically down to short block. RTV inbetween intake and intercooler spacers and supercharger is not cool.

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I had planned on replacing all the springs with something around 150lb seat pressure, isky 8005sp seemed like a good candidate at 150 @ 1.875". Stock installed height is 1.800" with a .015" shim under every spring, so with some different retainers/locks I could get to 1.875". Took the heads off and took a couple of springs off and measured installed height. First surprise was the install height of 1.965+. Then for the heck of it I wanted to see what pressure these springs were using my spring pressure gauge and arbor press. Low and behold, 150+ at 1.965ish. I'm not quite sure where the .150" was added, maybe machined pockets? More likely different retainers and locks?
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So I may have jumped the gun pulling everything apart but I did get to check out all the valvetrain and cylinders etc. These springs must be PACs from the colored stripe on them but not the oem spec springs. Crane 13532 lifters and new pushrods to accommodate taller lifters. So other than the bottom end I have a good idea of what's going on inside. I'll also be able to clean up some of the wiring in the back as well
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MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I would check the open pressure while you are in there. Seat pressure is good, but open pressure is important too. Also, you'll wanna see how far from coil bind you are.

Finding the spring part # used would be good info. Can you gauge the outer springs OD, and inner spring ID ?

IGetWet

Yes that's a good point, wish I could measure open pressure with my gauge, can't compress that far with the gauge. I'll measure diameters and maybe call PAC with the specs I do have and maybe they can give me a part no with spring rate from there. Thanks for the advice.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Looks like they installed dished pistons to drop the compression down as well.

IGetWet

Wow, you're absolutely correct. Kind of embarrassed I looked right passed that! All the company I bought it from could tell me was "upper and bottom end upgrades" so I didn't even think to investigate pistons. Couldn't give me specifics because they said the didn't do the build.... Thanks Mild Thunder

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

looks like a typical -20 cc dish. Depending on deck height, chamber size, gasket thickness, I'd guess you're in the 7.5 to 8.0:1 range . Are they still stock bore, or did they bore them?