33 Outlaw Outboard conversion with Bracket!
04-16-2024 | 08:04 PM
#21
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From: Slidell, La.
I have a piece of 3x3 1/4” angle that I will tie in the transom all the way the the hull sides. Past the end of the bracket, which is 78” wide and probably tie in the rear Eyes as well.
He stopped the Knees right below where the Angle “backing plate” will be.
I thought about running running some more angle from the backing plate down to the 2 side stringers for added strength and they also put 3 layers of plywood laminated together instead of the normal 2 that it had.
He stopped the Knees right below where the Angle “backing plate” will be.
I thought about running running some more angle from the backing plate down to the 2 side stringers for added strength and they also put 3 layers of plywood laminated together instead of the normal 2 that it had.
That looks really good!
Did you do anything to top of transom?
Your knees compensate for vertical loading bout not horizontal.
Your bracket will help a lot but only to top mounting/bolt line.
Remember with OBs they’re trying to peel the top of the the transom off under load.
On my Checkmate IO to OB conversion, I did similar knees to transom as yours and also added two layers of 11 ply Okume, 3/4” ply, glassed together (two layers of 2oz mat) and laminated to top of transom.
Can barely see it in this pic but it’s there.
W/the OBs, the loading totally changes.
Especially the big/heavy 4 strokes.
Did you do anything to top of transom?
Your knees compensate for vertical loading bout not horizontal.
Your bracket will help a lot but only to top mounting/bolt line.
Remember with OBs they’re trying to peel the top of the the transom off under load.
On my Checkmate IO to OB conversion, I did similar knees to transom as yours and also added two layers of 11 ply Okume, 3/4” ply, glassed together (two layers of 2oz mat) and laminated to top of transom.
Can barely see it in this pic but it’s there.
W/the OBs, the loading totally changes.
Especially the big/heavy 4 strokes.
04-16-2024 | 08:11 PM
#22
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 115
From: Slidell, La.
Sort of like this.. but that was before I ended up with a new transom and figure the backing plate will help distribute the load across the transom in addition to the bracket itself.
That looks really good!
Did you do anything to top of transom?
Your knees compensate for vertical loading bout not horizontal.
Your bracket will help a lot but only to top mounting/bolt line.
Remember with OBs they’re trying to peel the top of the the transom off under load.
On my Checkmate IO to OB conversion, I did similar knees to transom as yours and also added two layers of 11 ply Okume, 3/4” ply, glassed together (two layers of 2oz mat) and laminated to top of transom.
Can barely see it in this pic but it’s there.
W/the OBs, the loading totally changes.
Especially the big/heavy 4 strokes.
Did you do anything to top of transom?
Your knees compensate for vertical loading bout not horizontal.
Your bracket will help a lot but only to top mounting/bolt line.
Remember with OBs they’re trying to peel the top of the the transom off under load.
On my Checkmate IO to OB conversion, I did similar knees to transom as yours and also added two layers of 11 ply Okume, 3/4” ply, glassed together (two layers of 2oz mat) and laminated to top of transom.
Can barely see it in this pic but it’s there.
W/the OBs, the loading totally changes.
Especially the big/heavy 4 strokes.
04-17-2024 | 03:43 AM
#23
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 2,106
From: Milton, Fla!
I like it.
On my second 24’ Sonic, twin OB the factory screwed the pooch on reinforcing the transom when converting it from single IO to twin OB.
The top of the transom was bowed out approx 2”!
I hooked three come alongs to the top of the inside of it and continuously added tension, keeping all three banjo tight for 6 months while I restored the boat and added knees.
I was only able to pull out one inch!
Your work looks excellent though!
On my second 24’ Sonic, twin OB the factory screwed the pooch on reinforcing the transom when converting it from single IO to twin OB.
The top of the transom was bowed out approx 2”!
I hooked three come alongs to the top of the inside of it and continuously added tension, keeping all three banjo tight for 6 months while I restored the boat and added knees.
I was only able to pull out one inch!
Your work looks excellent though!
04-17-2024 | 08:08 PM
#24
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 115
From: Slidell, La.
I dont see the new transom bowing backwards like that. Between the 3 layers of transom and the knees are just below where the angle as backing plate. But I will probably tie the backing plate to the center and outer side stringers where the motor mounts were using more 1/4” angle!
Got boat home today and epoxied a piece of kiln dried 3/4” to mount the P and S rigging centers on the S rear side hull. I’ll put a couple coats of CPES and probably put some gel coat on it.
I also cut out another piece 18”x 48” to mount the helm harness and slide into the Dash panel.
Got boat home today and epoxied a piece of kiln dried 3/4” to mount the P and S rigging centers on the S rear side hull. I’ll put a couple coats of CPES and probably put some gel coat on it.
I also cut out another piece 18”x 48” to mount the helm harness and slide into the Dash panel.
I like it.
On my second 24’ Sonic, twin OB the factory screwed the pooch on reinforcing the transom when converting it from single IO to twin OB.
The top of the transom was bowed out approx 2”!
I hooked three come alongs to the top of the inside of it and continuously added tension, keeping all three banjo tight for 6 months while I restored the boat and added knees.
I was only able to pull out one inch!
Your work looks excellent though!
On my second 24’ Sonic, twin OB the factory screwed the pooch on reinforcing the transom when converting it from single IO to twin OB.
The top of the transom was bowed out approx 2”!
I hooked three come alongs to the top of the inside of it and continuously added tension, keeping all three banjo tight for 6 months while I restored the boat and added knees.
I was only able to pull out one inch!
Your work looks excellent though!
04-23-2024 | 03:09 PM
#25
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 115
From: Slidell, La.
Making some progress. Bracket also shipped out today.
Remounted tabs and powered up. Pulled old harnesses out, just need to figure out the accessory power.
Harness came in, but missing a few pieces, but enough for now. Mounted rigging centers, installed 1/2” fuel pickup and fuel line.
Remounted tabs and powered up. Pulled old harnesses out, just need to figure out the accessory power.
Harness came in, but missing a few pieces, but enough for now. Mounted rigging centers, installed 1/2” fuel pickup and fuel line.
04-27-2024 | 08:01 PM
#28
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Slidell, La.
As for set up.
I went look at a friends Donzi and his hull was 2” below his cav plate and he says he runs his best at 3” higher but gets loose. . But he is also twin step, so I figure lifting the boat by jacking the motor us is causing that.
Mine is currently 3.5” below cav plate, but I may raise the motors on the jack plate to get me 1.5” higher and not have to jack up so much. Since I'm at 3.5 from Cav plate, Prop shaft is still deep at 5” below hull.
Props are Rev 4’s, they came with 23.5 P Rev 4 xp. I also have 25’s that were on my B1’s also.
I went look at a friends Donzi and his hull was 2” below his cav plate and he says he runs his best at 3” higher but gets loose. . But he is also twin step, so I figure lifting the boat by jacking the motor us is causing that.
Mine is currently 3.5” below cav plate, but I may raise the motors on the jack plate to get me 1.5” higher and not have to jack up so much. Since I'm at 3.5 from Cav plate, Prop shaft is still deep at 5” below hull.
Props are Rev 4’s, they came with 23.5 P Rev 4 xp. I also have 25’s that were on my B1’s also.
