Winter project - Motors/Bilge
#102
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Sandown, NH - Sebago Lake Region, ME
Thanks
Jim
#103
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
The estimate was about $400 and that included drilling all the screw holes, polishing the edges and cutting out the holes for the light and hatch lift arm. I think the sheet of 1/4" MirrorPlex itself was about $260.
#106
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Jacksonville FL
one suggestion i would have, sinse you have it torn down to this point... Create a terminal connection that you can connect jumper cables to under the back seat, that then jump to the battery. this way if your battery is dead with the hatch down, you can get juice to the battery to get the hatch up
#107
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Okay got some more pictures...and we're getting close, I think, or hope 
Got the bilge at about 98% complete, just need to install the bilge blowers basically and that's it. I've pretty much replaced all electrical connections with heat shrink terminals AND then heat shrink over the terminals...should be any salt getting in there! I got sidetracked though because I think while I have the room to work I'm going to replace the rear cleats with pop-up's. The only other things to be done in the bilge are the new water pickups for the intercoolers, the strainers for the I/C's and then the dumps for the I/C's. I'm so happy, the Latham strainers I bought fit perfectly on the outside stringers and should work perfectly with 1 1/4" in and 3/4" out to the I/C's, then of course 3/4" dump on starboard transom.
The short blocks should be assembled this week, unfortunately my engine builder is going on vaca for a week starting Wednesday so that will obviously delay things, but we're moving along. At this point I've already waiting so long a little longer won't kill me...I just want it all done right and I know it will be. Speaking of engines, if any of you know of anybody looking for a great engine I have one of my old ones that we completely refreshed (0 hours) for sale. I'd really appreciate it if anybody can help me sell it , heck I'd even give somebody a little commission or something
Also as you've recently seen I have the interior out, so while that's out I think I'm going to swap out the Eclipse speakers for JL 7.7's and some new JL subs...but shouldn't delay the install of the engines.
As always, comments welcome!

Got the bilge at about 98% complete, just need to install the bilge blowers basically and that's it. I've pretty much replaced all electrical connections with heat shrink terminals AND then heat shrink over the terminals...should be any salt getting in there! I got sidetracked though because I think while I have the room to work I'm going to replace the rear cleats with pop-up's. The only other things to be done in the bilge are the new water pickups for the intercoolers, the strainers for the I/C's and then the dumps for the I/C's. I'm so happy, the Latham strainers I bought fit perfectly on the outside stringers and should work perfectly with 1 1/4" in and 3/4" out to the I/C's, then of course 3/4" dump on starboard transom.
The short blocks should be assembled this week, unfortunately my engine builder is going on vaca for a week starting Wednesday so that will obviously delay things, but we're moving along. At this point I've already waiting so long a little longer won't kill me...I just want it all done right and I know it will be. Speaking of engines, if any of you know of anybody looking for a great engine I have one of my old ones that we completely refreshed (0 hours) for sale. I'd really appreciate it if anybody can help me sell it , heck I'd even give somebody a little commission or something
Also as you've recently seen I have the interior out, so while that's out I think I'm going to swap out the Eclipse speakers for JL 7.7's and some new JL subs...but shouldn't delay the install of the engines.
As always, comments welcome!
#108
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
one suggestion i would have, sinse you have it torn down to this point... Create a terminal connection that you can connect jumper cables to under the back seat, that then jump to the battery. this way if your battery is dead with the hatch down, you can get juice to the battery to get the hatch up



