Looks Great!

Old Trick Lay up guy told me.

Cold shower first and scrub downd with a womens
nylon / streched over your hand. Pulls all the fibers out.

then switch to hot shower and allow your pores to open.

Jon

Hey Jon,
That sounds like something Artie (Offshore Ginger) would say. He said he knew you from years ago.

Shawn

Known Artie for years, good guy!
How is the Young Gentleman doing these days?

Yes may have heard that from Artie also
along with the Saber crew.

Jon

Thanks Jon I will try that trick next time.
RG.

Any Updates, when will you be Test Driving?
What improvements are you expecting?

Automobili I am in the midst of fiberglassing the insert in place . Working upside down has presented all the challenges I expected and I am pleased with the results so far but am taking my time so as not to create any weak spots . I am hoping to have all the rough glass work done by the end of the weekend then I will finish replacing the transom . Once that is down I can rerig the hull . My goal is to be wet by the second week in May. So far I am on Target .
I will post some more photos on the weekend.
RG.

How long are you letting the resin cure before the next Layup?
I have always been told if you let the Resin cure for more than 48 Hrs, you have to grind it before laying up more Glass, the Resin cures to much and adhesive is not good after 48 hours. If not grinded you can have delamination.

Automobili , I usually like to wait at least 24 hours between cures and I always grind between layups and I have been following this approach for the last 25 years and am happy to say I have yet to see a delamination . Its take alot longer, is royal pain but I feel you get a better result.
RG.

I have been busy at work and just recently got back to the project. Yesterday I began to build the Kavlar layers on the inside of the hull. I got off to a great start , i just have to keep up the momentum . I have been spending most of the time on the outside of the hull previous to this . What a pain working upside down. I will post some pic of that later this week
Here are a few shots of yesterdays work.

Rick G

Nice clean work Rick!......Does Kevlar pose any difficulty say from a 1708?.....I heard it's harder to cut.

Thanks Scippy . Yes it does , in fact I had to buy scissors specific for cutting Kevlar .

RG.

Well the heavy lifting is over . I have the notch roughed in and structurally complete . Now begins the finishing and final gelcoat application . End of the week it goes to my buddies marina where we are going to replace the transom ( need an extra pair of hands ) . Then we rerigg.
Here are a few shots of the roughed in notch.
RG.

Rick,

Your pictures seem to be invisible?


Jon

Sorry its Monday.

Rick,

Looking Good, are you adding and Stringer Gussets?

Adds tons of transome support...


Jon

Absolutely . I need to redo the transom , that will happen the end of this week and then I can complete the stringer reinforcement.
RG.

Just saw this thread


Nope osb :D in theory your repair will be as strong or stronger then what was there if done properly and by the looks of it it is certainly being done properly

I've cut entire boats nearly in half, the mean green race machine has two years and twenty plus races on this repair without even the slightest stress crack. This was one of the most advanced repairs i have ever done. Some day i will do a thread on it :cool:

Not try'in to highjack, just had to jump in :D carry on man nice work!

nice work Dave. Where did you get the piece to graft in there?

Thanks

before i chopped the nose off we pulled the whole sponson back over with a back hoe then i re worked the surface with a ton of bondo and drywall screws and pulled a mold. The inner core was blown as well as the bulkheads but it was still kinda the original shape. I thought about pulling a mold off another (Shawn in Windsor graciously offered up his) but in the end it was better to rough this one back into shape and pull a mold here. The way i managed the surface and the core layup made fitting the actual part on the boat a fifteen minute process. It would have been a tougher time had i pulled it from another boat. I will do a thread someday . . . . if a ever get some spare time :D

Rick, will this notch require you to raise the X dim?


again Rick sorry for the slight detour :cool:

Thanks Dave , and they said I had balls.
Nice to see I'm not the only one that uses the latest in high tech lifting and support tools ( "ie" cinder blocks and old wooded saw horses ) .
What ever gets the job done I say.
Great work I look forward to seeing your thread on that.
RG.

Nice work Rick...... that came out great. Hey Dave if you remember OrionSilverBoat was that idiot DARR........... Enough said, as you know he knows 'everything about everything' :):):)

he will be testing when I'm done with his engines!! top secret build going on now!! lmao!! lets just say those new #5s are gonna get a workout!! lmao :lolhit:

lol, yea i lost track but now that ya mention it i do remember that name . . . . . . i somehow feel dumber now just for having even responded to him. Just realized how funny his comments were after seeing how he hacked the nose and bustle of that Skater :picard1: :D


Rick what was your final laminate stack for the notch and do you have to raise the X dim to accommodate it now now? The reason i ask is a couple years ago when i did the transom of my ScarabIII i raised the X 2.25 inches and it was probably one of the best mods i have ever done. Cant believe how much better the boat responds/handles being able to spin a good prop (B1's) in the proper location.

Dave I think I went a little over board on the lay up. The initial notch insert was laid up using 6 layers of biaxle stitch mat ( 1708 style) cloth alternating between 90 degree and 45 degree weave. Externally I have between 5 and 7 layers of the same lay up schedule. Internally I have 2 layers of 1708, then 0ne mat then one Kevlar that I repeated 5 times , then another 2 layers of 1708 . Over all thickness is min I inch ( I don't want it to fail ). Once the new transom is in I will then continue the centre and outboard stringers to the transon adding additional strenght. As I am going to numbers 5 drives I am going to set the initial X dimension at 3 1/2 inches below the running surface. I am starting there as the drives currently have 3 inches of spacers and the plan is to remove spacers
1 inch at a time to achieve the best combination of planing and performance. I plan to use the boat with the fam and friends and am prepared to give up a little speed for ease of planing ( easier on the drives and motors ).
Hope that helps RG.

It's guys like you and
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...storation.html
That keep this site interesting.

Very good work.
ed

Well I have been movong along. the new transom is now done. this weekend I will reconnect the stringers to the transom , then I will finish the notch and begin the rerigg. Here are some pictures of the finished transom.
RG.[ATTACH=CONFIG]501238[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501239[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501240[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501241[/ATTACH]

Rick,

Looking Great, ..........

Jon

I worked on the stringer reconnect on the weekend . Here are a few pictures .
Rick G[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501455[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501454[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501456[/ATTACH]

Well I have completed the notch and am pleased with how it turned out. All I have left to do is a final sand and to spray the finish coat of gel .Now lets hope it does everything it is suppose to .
Rick G. [ATTACH=CONFIG]501941[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501942[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501943[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501944[/ATTACH]

Rick, that is one nice looking notch! You may need to upgrade your trailer weight rating based on your laminate schedule. Just kidding. I hope that it does great. Bob N.

nice work

Wow, awesome job! That's a lot of hard work!

Looking good. Great work! FYI, I have V's on boxes on my Mistress. I also started off with 3" of spacers, with the propshaft about 4" below. I took all of my spacers out in one fell swoop, so 1" below now. I only have 16.75" x 32" 4-bladers, and it works great. I would save yourself some time and lots of oil, studs and wear pads, and set them higher from the get-go, especially if you are going to have power like is being hinted at. Start maybe 2" below hull and go from there. Mine is not a rocket out of the hole, but it is not much worse with the spacers gone then before. I used to blow out at about 2200 rpm, now it happens under 2000. I just put them at 4000 and it claws its way up. You should wind up with about the same distance back from hull bottom to props as what I have with the boxes. The handling is much nicer with the drives higher. Less tendency to porpoise, and it goes the same speeds with 1-2 psi less boost than before. Tabs all the way up by 65 mph, drives trim out to about "4" (3 is level), and I don't have to really touch it from there on up. Trimming drives out further seems to have no effect.

P.S. props are turning inboard.

Thanks Tcelano , great info . When I spoke to Lipship he suggested I start at 4 inches below . My combination will be the 5 drives at 4 inches below turning out running naturally aspirated 605 inch big blocks at 725 Hp . I am prepared to give up some top end in lieu of planing ability ( full boat wife and kids and friends) . I will be happy if I can get the boat to run 80 mph with this combo with easy planing and solid mid range . The highest I can run the drives is One inch below without redrilling the transom . I am starting with the wrong props 4 blade 25 pitch , so I know I have a lot of work to do there but I own them so that's where I will start . I will let you know what the maiden voyage reveals .
RG.

Rick, you should be good in that range. I had gotten the impression of more power from one of the posts. What is the peak rpm range on those mills? If your peak power is around 5500, you'll likely want to end up with 27 or 28's. I haven't opened mine up yet, (and may never be able to hold it all they way open...) but I can tell from the engine telemetry and my prediction calcs that going 92 required about 830 hp per side. Your hull is heavier, but I'm lugging around blowers and intercoolers, extra fuel, extension boxes, drivelines, remote tailstocks, etc, so weight prob ends up close.

My calcs show that with the 25's you will likely need to spin 5700 rpm, and 625 hp at crank to reach 80. If you get 27's I think you could get to 86 mph@ 5700, 725 hp. If you can't spin that high, 28's, maybe 29's.

Thanks T. The way the motors are built I have not ruled out power add ons in the future but for now this will be fine . You are right I will like to max out at 5500 to 5700 rpm. The boat will probably see most of its duty cruising around 60 mph .
RG .

I am begining to rerigg the boat in anticipation if being ready for the spring. Decided to go with vintage Apache deck hardware.
RG.[ATTACH=CONFIG]513358[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]513359[/ATTACH]

Very nice choice!

Well I have been busy trying to get this beast put back together. It is going to see the water this year come hell or high water .
I finished the Kevlar stringer reinforcements , painted the bilge and installed the starboard gimbal. I am working on the tramsom rigging . Should have the other gimbal in this weekend then I can start to out the motors back in .Here are few oictures .
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