My Aluminum myco was just under $20,000 brand new in 2008. ZP's would be at least $30,000 if myco made it

ZP, beautiful work as always. I have a couple of questions if you have a minute.

I am running Rockwell American hubs on 5200 lb axles with center lube spindles. I have constantly had trouble keeping the inside seals from leaking grease (water does not intrude but grease gets out and makes a mess of things). Have you run into this situation? The Air Tight seals do not appear to be for the center lube axles. What are you running? In my case, the hubs do not seem to carry the sealing lips on the inner seals far enough inboard to clear the grease hole on the spindle (just inside the hub from the seal). I just didn't know if you had run into this situation. I have some new triple lip seals to try but ultimately may have to get new axles or custom machine the hubs which seems ridiculous. I trust I am not the only one with these issues.

I have set our trailer up to carry the boat level and it appears that you have done so also. I am thinking that a small amount of rake between the boat and trailer may be a good thing (1 to 2 degrees). Any thoughts on this? Ours is a bolt together trailer so it is "easy" to change.

I like the drive guard, but mostly because of the great location for transom straps it affords. Nicely done. Were you using 0.035" wire or something heavier?

I also am a big fan of the Kodiak brakes. I am running a full stainless setup. The only downside is that the coefficient of friction on the stainless is not as good as for iron so the brakes need a little more gain on them. Initial bite is particularly lacking but improves when the brakes heat up. Never having a dragging brake or other corrosion issues is wonderful however and I highly recommend them. Same for the Brakerite EOH system. I assume you were already running this setup but if not, you will love it.

I did (well, my wife did) get tired of cranking up the trailer tongue so we went with an electric tongue jack. I recommend that also particularly since you've already got a battery for the Brakerite EOH system. I could not find a model that side mounted like most boat trailer jacks so had to build a stainless jack mount. If you try it you will like it.

I don't mean to hijack but here are a couple of pictures. Like you, if we don't trailer we don't boat.

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And also please let me know how you like the plastic bunk covers. We ended up using some indoor/outdoor carpeting from the local box store which has proved much more durable than the "marine" bunk carpeting. It did have a lot of friction which made loading more difficult so we purchased some Liquid Rollers bunk spray. This has worked well and lasted years. Fair warning that the boat does want to slide around on the trailer more. Low friction is not always a good thing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marykate-Liq...pXuXn-&vxp=mtr

Wow amazing work! Love seeing builds like this

Amazing.. i love the quality and ingenuity of all the little details you did.

Beautiful job!!

Let us know how you like those plastic bunk covers..

The Air tite sport kit for 5200 to 6000 pound axles will work on your spindles. They are a pain to install but worth it. The stainless ring will solve your seal problems. Just follow the instructions. An old bearing inner race pressed into a 2" pipe makes a great driver, small pin punch is needed to get the ring half past the grease hole.

I used .35 wire 4043, in one pound spools.

Nice work, ZP!!!

ZP
besides you, do you know who does build a trailer with the top rail?

I've seen it on Myco Steel trailers. I don't know if they will put on on Aluminum. But I bet they would for the right price. Manning probably would to.
A buddy has a Steel LoadMaster under his 37AT, and it has the rail on it too.