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Old 10-07-2011 | 11:13 PM
  #31  
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From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
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Originally Posted by airshares
I assume you have a Bravo drive. All you do get yourself a set of Muffs for engine flushing. Clamp them over the water pick ups on the drive and connect a hose to it. Turn on the water and start the engines. Let them run for about 5 minutes to flush the motor.
In salt water I use to taste test the water coming out of the exhaust and if it wasn't salty I knew it was probably good. Being that you are already in fresh water I would just let it run for about 4-5 minutes. Then shut it down turn off water and youre done.
Yes, I usually flush a few times a year using a hose/muffs, but, the water I use is from the river, it goes through filters before going to the cottage, but, its not as clean as "city" water. Also, as anyone who has ever taken apart a kitchen tap, old water heater, or replaced any home plumbing can tell ya, fresh water has deposits too, calcium, algae, etc. So, I am thinking after years of use [even it was "fresh" water] there is probably a build up of deposits and assorted "crap" in the cooler and heat exchanger. So, I wondererd if it was worth flushing with CLR or something similiar, and, what the easiest way to do it would be?

Thanks for the input!
Michael
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Old 10-16-2011 | 10:53 AM
  #32  
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From: Fox Island, WA
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I put full systems on my Chris Craft Stinger (350 cu.in 260 HP). The kits came with 160º thermostats which actually slightly cut top end over the stock 140º stats (which I changed back). As I used this boat in salt water year-around I was able to add a cabin heater, a real plus. Another mod I made was to add high flow water pumps on both engines (not the drives - so there is no confusion). Before the engine high flow pumps the temps would jump up 25-40º when I came off plane to an idle. After a few minutes idling the temps would come back down but the high flow engine water pumps eliminated the temp spikes. Both engines were mildly upgraded with heads, intakes, cams, and roller rockers - guesstimate HP 300. Stay on top of the zinks in the heat exchangers. Mine disappeared in a hurry! BTW - as a former teacher I appreciate the patience most members have with new Fountain owners. Answering a post with "That's easy to do." and giving no instruction on how to solve the problem is of little value.
Wes Burmark is offline  
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