Closed cooling systems
#31
Registered
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 1
From: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
I assume you have a Bravo drive. All you do get yourself a set of Muffs for engine flushing. Clamp them over the water pick ups on the drive and connect a hose to it. Turn on the water and start the engines. Let them run for about 5 minutes to flush the motor.
In salt water I use to taste test the water coming out of the exhaust and if it wasn't salty I knew it was probably good. Being that you are already in fresh water I would just let it run for about 4-5 minutes. Then shut it down turn off water and youre done.
In salt water I use to taste test the water coming out of the exhaust and if it wasn't salty I knew it was probably good. Being that you are already in fresh water I would just let it run for about 4-5 minutes. Then shut it down turn off water and youre done.
Thanks for the input!
Michael
#32
Registered
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 557
Likes: 4
From: Fox Island, WA
I put full systems on my Chris Craft Stinger (350 cu.in 260 HP). The kits came with 160º thermostats which actually slightly cut top end over the stock 140º stats (which I changed back). As I used this boat in salt water year-around I was able to add a cabin heater, a real plus. Another mod I made was to add high flow water pumps on both engines (not the drives - so there is no confusion). Before the engine high flow pumps the temps would jump up 25-40º when I came off plane to an idle. After a few minutes idling the temps would come back down but the high flow engine water pumps eliminated the temp spikes. Both engines were mildly upgraded with heads, intakes, cams, and roller rockers - guesstimate HP 300. Stay on top of the zinks in the heat exchangers. Mine disappeared in a hurry! BTW - as a former teacher I appreciate the patience most members have with new Fountain owners. Answering a post with "That's easy to do." and giving no instruction on how to solve the problem is of little value.



