Some of the wakeboat manufacturers have stepped up on the stereos, BUT, they're still not installers, and don't have much knowledge. That being said, I'm not a boat builder, and I'm not going to try to build boats. The stereo's that come out of those factories have decent equipment, and some are exclusive to Wet Sounds, but they always come out needing more.

A Tige customer took delivery of his boat from the manufacturers plant, freshly built, then brought it to me. I added amps, tower speakers, and a sub. It had in-boat speakers, but didn't sound like much.

Being a party stereo guy, the description does not help much......
I don't know how the boat was spec'ed, Don't know what the factory had for amps.
The boat I saw had a pair of Rev10 and pair of Rev8 on the tower, 3 pair of 808 and a single SS-10B (pretty sure but didn't get that dirty) Only 2 amps. (NOT ENOUGH IMO, from general assumption)
I suspect it could handle significantly more power and sound better. OEM always shoots for the lowest bang for the buck.

Again, now I regret not getting a closer inspection or asking to turn it up.

Personally, I would order basic (or none) and go from there.........
What did you get to do to add some SPICE?

I'm the same kind of guy. My Supra had 6 Rev8's, 2 12" XXX's, 6 XS-650's, 3 Syn4's, and 2 Syn1's. It also had enough battery power to play all day without starting the boat.....

sorry about the vague description, I couldn't remember what amp it came with. Seemed like it was a Kicker ZX300.4, but again, I can't remember. I added a pair of Rev8's, Sinister6, a WS-420, and an XS-12. The boat may have been ordered like that, to their defense.

I can say that the Supra's, Moomba's, and some Mastercrafts come out needing to either be tuned, or equipment changed as all the speakers are underpowered.

The boat you mentioned above should've had 1 amp per pair of tower speakers, 1 amp for boat speakers, and 1 amp for the sub. That's how to properly do it, but most of the general public cheaps out on stereo's, so when they built the boat you saw, (and it could have been the dealer that built it) they cut corners. The Rev's typically need at least 250-300W per can to sound like they're supposed to. I always pair a set of Rev8's or 10's with a single Syn4, at minimum.

Since we're talking about Wet Sounds, the UTV market has grown significantly for us. This one has a WS-420 with ipod and bluetooth input, Sinister6 amp, 2 SW-650's in the kick panels, an SS10 in a passenger side enclosure, and a pair of Rev8's with RGB LED's. It's louder than most boats out there.... There's also a Stinger SPP1500 battery for the winch and stereo.

Kicker has some kick ass stuff coming this spring.
LED's in the speakers. I like the Dual Zone controller.

I am slightly partial as they sponsored me in the World of Outlaws when I ran the Kicker car.

http://www.kicker.com/marine_audio

We've been backlighting coax's for years.... The dual-zone controller is nothing more than a glorified PAC RCA level control, with an auxiliary input.

Here's a real dual-zone control: http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/products/WS-420.html

Main volume control, separate volume control for in-boat and tower (or front/rear), talkback mic, aux in, aux OUT (to link more boats or stereo's together to play the same music), sub volume control, dual zone EQ - control the tone completely separate on in-boat or tower (or front/rear). Plus it also has a 5V pre-out.

I'm looking for a controller for LEDs to have blink to the music or just turn them on. But I not want them to be Blue or clear. Everything I find is an RGB kit. I just don't want all those colors ... Any suggestions?

the controller has 4 connections for the RGB led strips, - r g b, you can hook up the wires any way you want, but if you eliminate blue all you will get are combinations of R & G.

I did both. Wet sounds 6.5" and JL W7 10" sub.

Subs don't count for this conversation :P