Yep, that is in the plan Eddie provided.

Does Eddie have a dyno, or does he use a shop near him for dyno service? What part of Kentucky are you near?

Never asked the question about a dyno but didn't see one in his shop. Not to say there wasn't one there, the place was full of very nice boats he was working on and it was a good size building. I thing he had around 8 boats inside (Real nice Fountain Executioner).

I'm in south KY and about 2 hours from Eddie and he is near Nashville TN

Lol. That was probably TRL505's ex.

Was on a thread here the other day on the issue of diverters and the OP had 525's. The end result was to install turn downs. After thinking about turn downs I think I'm going to go the same route. You have open exhaust when running and when you slow down they are as quite as non-diverter thru hull.

Got my new +3 up tubes today
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6&d=1416959522

Waiting for the stuff to come in to start the grinding so did a bit of work. Replaced the broken anodes on the new transom assembly, removed the exhaust boot and installed the exhaust block off plate.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...2&d=1419196758

Took a ride to see Eddie today to give him the new elbows. The engine looks real good and will be on the dyno next week. Eddie and Travis have done some real nice work. Opened up the fuel rail and will feed fuel from both ends and has a return line back to the tank. Cut down the intake and opened it up some.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1021&type=full

In this pic you can see what the intake use to look like and that mine has been cut down so it is level with the inside of the plenum. Also charged from V-belt to serpentine

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1080&type=full

PS cooler mounted on the rear deck, cool fuel mounted were cooler was, port side low

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1429&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...1595&type=full

Now I really need to get moving to finish the transom and other glass work

So Dodge what all has been done to the motor and what kind of power are you expecting?

Chris

Everything inside has been replaced except valves and crank. Valve guides have been cut shortened, intake and exhaust have been honed along with combustion chamber, bored .030 over, and balanced. MEFI1 replaced with MEFI3, don't know what compression it will be running but Eddie tells me the engine will have over 100 extra HP. I don't see it going over 550 probably in the 525 range, but as before I want low end torque more then HP

Unless things change I'm going to go and pick up the engine probably Tuesday. Talking to Eddie he said the engine produced 545 HP and 617 Torque using 91 octane. He did two engines and believes the numbers are correct but will have paper work when I go to pick it up. Numbers will probably drop 15HP when hooked up to my exhaust. He uses dry tuned headers running through a muffler do to sound level.

When I'm done with repairs and ready, Eddie will come down and ride with to return for optimum performance

Picked up the engine yesterday, and also ordered a 1.65 ratio B3XR. Now I have to buy even more stuff, Drive shower, thru hull exhaust tips with flappers and turndowns. I really don't have to buy turndowns but since I have to remove my Corsa muffler tips, and no longer will use silent choice, I want turndowns so it won't be so loud at the dock and pulling up to another.

Keep getting more stuff to sell, which isn't good from where I'm at

Been doing a bit of work on the engine to get it ready to go in. To look at it, it doesn't seam much different on the out side other then change over from V-belt to serpentine. Removed the oil fill cap and you can see one of the new roller rockers

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0745&type=full

A new set of exhaust tips with turn downs came in from CMI

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0841&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0894&type=full

They installed some very slight baffles to help reduce the sound when on plane

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...0981&type=full

Great progress are you interested in a pair of inboard mufflers?

Thanks but no, also don't have any room. Pipes going straight out the back and was told I needed to remove my muffler tips and silent choice. So picked up the turn downs

Looking good. I would have gone with open tips because that engine is going to make some sweet music!

I like the rumble but have never liked it so loud you have to scream to talk to someone on a boat. I'm sure it will sound real nice, so at least it will be quite when docking or tying up.

Just finished painting the large areas of the engine room, so starting tomorrow I'll start re-rigging it and putting stuff back together. Once I get the Gen, and wiring together I'll stop my transom thread and start using this one again for engine install and testing

Transom is done now to install the engine tomorrow. YEA

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9451&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9508&type=full

Hooked up several other items will get more pic later

great job, did you detail the repair more over on Iboats? i'd like to follow

Can't wait to see how it performs.

I try to put everything in both places, there are other things which show up based on questions being asked. Same for here, if a question is asked I'll go into more detail or try to answer.

Started the install of the engine, it takes a lot of chain pulling to pick it up high enough

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6645&type=full

Tried to install and it was not going in, need two shoe horns. Took it back out and repositioned the straps to put the engine at an angle tipping to the rear. This helped but still no go. So removed the seawater pump and alternator.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6913&type=full

Managed to get it in and put everything back on including the new elbows. Most of this was done laying on top the motor hanging upside down. Don't know if I'm getting better or just getting use to the pain. Made a bracket to hold my lube bottle and go figure the hose is not long enough. This one is no issue, the hose is cheap and readily available

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7252&type=full

And now for the rest of the story, there seems to always be something else. My new exhaust elbows are 9 inches from the transom and about 1.5 inches high and to the right or the hole. Now I need about 12 to 13 inches of flexible exhaust hose. Seem no one has the Shields or Trident 252 of 252V (silicone) 4 inch hose. All backorder 2 to 3 weeks. Starting to think about a 4 inch pipe (copper or stainless) and 2 of my 4 inch boots.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7687&type=full

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...7728&type=full


Also had to remove the bar used to raise/lower my engine hatch because the elbows will interfere with it. now have to make something up to use the drive of maybe remove it. Don't think this will be a big thing but for now on the back burner

I did exactly that until I could get the full hose in. Used 4" Exhaust pipe, since it was temporary, standard pipe (not SS) was used.

Just called Marine Exhaust in FL asking them about their Flexible (wire reinforced) Silicone Hose. They sell it in 2 foot increments and is only $48 for two feet. Don't know how flexible it is so they are going to have someone call me to advise. Either that of found a 3 foot piece for $189 on ebay which is Shields Nautiflex Silicone Blue Series

I was lucky enough to find an OSO member who was able to sell me some blue silicon hose at a decent price. I had similar misalignment, but with only a few inches from collector to transom to work with. Since you have a little more room, what about a short section of pipe and two of the silicon "hump" hoses? they are easy to find on the web, and most are rated for over 300*.

BTW, I thought I had it bad for having to dive into my bilge to work on my engine. remind me to never attempt to work on a cruiser! I can only imagine how much fun that would be with twins.

I ordered the 2 foot section from Marine exhaust, figure 50 bucks it's worth a try. If it doesn't work out I'll go for the pipe and two hump hoses

Doing the kind of work your doing in the bilge reminds me of when I changed the plugs on my big blocks in the Chris Cat. My girlfriend thought I had gone 3 rounds with a cougar and lost. My arms were so scratched up from reaching between the CMI headers and the inner lip of hatch surround (and the rub rail screw points on the inside) and my calves tore up by the engine mount brackets.

So yes you are getting used to pain.... Kind of makes you look forward to waterboarding.....:silenced:

Why not jus modify your risers? Much nicer solution than wrestling on hose and probably as cheap.

They are eddie marine +3 runners. Don't know how I could get it done. The holes are off due to me eye-balling them years ago when I drilled the holes. Didn't have a template or even look what they should be. Drilled, installed silent choice and tips, worked great for years. Just replaced the 4-wire solenoids for 3-wire and added some pipe to the bottom two years ago. Everything still works today, could probably get CMI to make me something for next season if I run into to much of a band aid

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...9&d=1416415704

LOL good one. Just crawled out and today I'm scratched up and as always my chest is a bit bruised from laying on it on top the plenum. Getting closer, gas lines run, engine aligned, cables on, need to get the shift cable installed and adjusted next

Could it be as simple as modifying the plate that bolts to the manifold to rotate the risers slightly in the direction of the cutouts? You still might have a slight misalignment, but this would make it much more manageable. Since it is a dry joint, there are no worries with internal passages lining up. I know you might not want to take a grinder to those pretty new risers, but you may be able to just enlarge the bolt holes enough to allow it to rotate a little bit, and just put some washers under the nuts.

Dodge- so easy, at least when doing just 1 angle change: use a cut off (metal chop) saw, cut through the riser (both pipes) 90 deg within a couple of inches of where the tail is welded to the riser. Next on your elbow piece, cut your outside pipe back 1/2", so your weld shop or you can tig your inner pipe back in with the cut angle you desire, then weld your outer pipe back on with the same cut angle. Notes- to cut back your outer pipe, use a hose clamp as your guide. Use dermal cut-off wheels (you'll need about 3 per side) and cut around the outer pipe using the hose clamp as your guide. Finish your cut ends buy carefully (don't press real hard) on the side of your chop saw blade. In the elbow end (ouster pipe) you will have to clean that cut up with a file. Just the dremel with the guide makes a very nice cut. Have your welder tig it up and you are done. Lastly, go to the hardware store and get the Dico gray polishing stick and cotton polishing wheel for your bench grinder and you'll never pay to have anything polished again - its amazing how fast and easy this is albeit a little messy. Don't wear a nice shirt.

btw- I would pay my very good welder less than $150 for this.

I just want to know who the sadistic bastard is that is charge of sharpening the hose clamps with an angle grinder before installing them on boats..lol...

Coming into the home stretch
 

Gave it a quick between the bunk paint job today, plan to jack it up off the trailer at the end of the season and do it right for next season.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6069&type=full

Installed the turns downs and readjusted the engine mounts for a better alignment. Having of time waiting for the hose I find myself tweaking things

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6255&type=full

Uncrated the drive and was looking for the serial number, all I found was this tag

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6353&type=full

Just above the Mercruiser label there is small print which sates "Serial Number" but there is none there. On the other side it has "Drive Ratio" which is also blank.
Kinda figured that info would be there. Might give Gavin Marine a call to find out why it's not there

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6543&type=full

Made me a tool to adjust the engine mounts easier. Not enough room to use a full length 1 1/16 wrench, but after you bend it a couple times t works pretty good. Like those cheap Pittsburg tools for such mods

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6675&type=full

A few more war wounds for the tight quarters

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...6801&type=full

Contacted Gavin Marine and they bought an upper and a lower from Merc and put them together, this is why it doesn't have a serial number. I'm sure it's OK but bothers me to find out now the issue instead of knowing it from the get go.

Love to see the progress. looks good

I need to find out about this black cloud that is following me around. Checked the gear lube it was ok, then put the drive on and the props. A little later I see lube under the drive. Pull the props and it's the inner shaft seal leaking. Sure looks like they didn't pressure test it before putting the lube in. Everything about this project keeps going in the wrong direction. Now get to find out how to get warranty done.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fe...4791&type=full

I always tell myself when my projects are pooping the bed----"if it were easy, everyone would do it!"

Good one LOL

And the saga continues, Just received what Marine Exhaust said was their "flexible" 4 inch exhaust hose, this is as stiff as any hard way stiff hose, no flex to it at all. Then to add a bit more icing they only sent 1 foot. The website indicates that the minimum order is 2 feet and list a price of 50 each. So sounds to me like 50 for 2 feet and 100 for 4 feet and so on. Nope they did me a benefit by only selling me 1 foot.

Do you have hose store near you called coliflower