Complete repowering of a brick
10-22-2014 | 03:04 PM
#61
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From: naples,florida
Sure appreciate the write up Tommy, going to have to re-read it several times to try to understand all you put in. I was told Formula uses ASME 5000 resin and haven't heard of 17 biaxe, 17 ox biax or divinycell. Sure I can find them with google.
Like the idea of building the pad to reduce water but there is a tube which has holes in it about a foot up from the drain plug. The holes one on each side of the center drain pipe which is under the glass has always had a bit of water in them. There is three ribs crossways in the area and I think they help get the water to the plug. Go figure, water goes to the plug for draining but boat doesn't come out very often.
See if I can find some kind of saw which I can use to get a clean cut. As for behind the stringers, this will be an issue, may have to use a drill and little by little dig it out. I drilled into the bottom of the stringers down low and back, and the wood came out blond and appears very dry. Have a moisture meter coming to do some further checks. Another mentioned that if I cut into the glass on the back of the stringers it will be more difficult to get the but joint right. I'm unable to get to the other side of the stringers due to they are sealed up by boxing it the other side
I'd hate to do it but if all else doesn't seem to work out, I guess I can cut through the back going in and then re-glass and gel-coat. Really don't want to do that
Like the idea of building the pad to reduce water but there is a tube which has holes in it about a foot up from the drain plug. The holes one on each side of the center drain pipe which is under the glass has always had a bit of water in them. There is three ribs crossways in the area and I think they help get the water to the plug. Go figure, water goes to the plug for draining but boat doesn't come out very often.
See if I can find some kind of saw which I can use to get a clean cut. As for behind the stringers, this will be an issue, may have to use a drill and little by little dig it out. I drilled into the bottom of the stringers down low and back, and the wood came out blond and appears very dry. Have a moisture meter coming to do some further checks. Another mentioned that if I cut into the glass on the back of the stringers it will be more difficult to get the but joint right. I'm unable to get to the other side of the stringers due to they are sealed up by boxing it the other side
I'd hate to do it but if all else doesn't seem to work out, I guess I can cut through the back going in and then re-glass and gel-coat. Really don't want to do that
West system Epoxy is all I would use for the reapair the bonding is 2nd to none . If it was a full transom replacement I would use traditional resin but you can use any additional strength you can get in a partial replacement .
Biaxial cloth is what you will be using. As far as Resin I thing 2 gallons should be plenty for the small area you are working ,
Last edited by tommymonza; 10-22-2014 at 03:06 PM.
10-22-2014 | 04:44 PM
#62
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From: KY
Oh boy
Just cut about another inch above on both port and starboard sides with my 18V skill saw. Pried the wood off and sure enough it's black behind is also. I'm now half way up to about the top of the stringers. Getting that sinking feeling that a partial replacement is not going to work. I could cut out clear to the top and replace it from the stringers in, not sure that would work either. Thinking there could still be black on either side. Going to sleep on it and think about what it would take to get the whole thing out. 
10-23-2014 | 08:11 AM
#64
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From: KY
Was having some real issues thinking about all the work, but I also have all winter, (burr) recon I can get it done. The wood is 2 inches think and real solid. The rot is showing on the back side layer only against the outer skin. Just a thin layer but means it is delaminating from the hull. Need to get a multitool so I can have an easier time cutting some of this out. While I haven't done much fiber glass work before, I'll be looking to you guys to steer me along. Going to take a trip today to go find some more tools.
10-23-2014 | 09:00 AM
#65
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AD, sounds like Tommy has a pretty good handle on how to do this, but I would still post a separate thread on the paint and fiberglass forum to maybe get some additional input from Dave and some of the guys who frequent that board. From the looks of things you might sleep better at night to just bite the bullet and replace the whole transom. Hopefully the rot stopped short of your stringers. It amazes me that even high end builders like Formula frequently neglect the simple step of glassing in the cutout for the transom assembly. I frequently see this step neglected for other openings like exhaust tips. All you really need to do is get a couple of good layers of resin over the wood in these openings to keep the transom from rotting out if you develop a leak in these areas. It looks like your transom assy seal was probably leaking. You might check the area around the screws for the trim tabs too. A lot of times they just run screws into these areas without enough silicone. Actually, the best way to handle thru bolts and thru hull fittings is to drill the hole out oversize, fill the hole with epoxy or resin and let it cure, and then drill the proper diameter hole for the fastener. That prevents any leaking water from getting to the wood core. It's unfortunate that most production builders don't want to take these steps because their goal is to get the boats off the factory floor and into the dealers' showrooms.
Good luck with the project. Since you will already be elbows deep in fiberglass, might as well check other areas of the boat that could be prone to rot. Gas tank, cabin floor, etc. - anywhere that screws can be run and exposed to water.
Good luck with the project. Since you will already be elbows deep in fiberglass, might as well check other areas of the boat that could be prone to rot. Gas tank, cabin floor, etc. - anywhere that screws can be run and exposed to water.
10-23-2014 | 09:32 AM
#66
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From: Ontario, Canada
A friend of mine that is a boat builder used to work for a couple large dealers when dealers used to install the engine and drive combo. The builders never specified to seal around any of the transom hardware except the use of the gimble seal. They also didn't seal around deck hardware. Since moving to building his own boats he takes the time to prevent water issues (Hydrostream, Jcraft ski, Talons, and Tuff's) the boats last forever
10-23-2014 | 04:13 PM
#67
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From: KY
AD, sounds like Tommy has a pretty good handle on how to do this, but I would still post a separate thread on the paint and fiberglass forum to maybe get some additional input from Dave and some of the guys who frequent that board. From the looks of things you might sleep better at night to just bite the bullet and replace the whole transom. Hopefully the rot stopped short of your stringers. It amazes me that even high end builders like Formula frequently neglect the simple step of glassing in the cutout for the transom assembly. I frequently see this step neglected for other openings like exhaust tips. All you really need to do is get a couple of good layers of resin over the wood in these openings to keep the transom from rotting out if you develop a leak in these areas. It looks like your transom assy seal was probably leaking. You might check the area around the screws for the trim tabs too. A lot of times they just run screws into these areas without enough silicone. Actually, the best way to handle thru bolts and thru hull fittings is to drill the hole out oversize, fill the hole with epoxy or resin and let it cure, and then drill the proper diameter hole for the fastener. That prevents any leaking water from getting to the wood core. It's unfortunate that most production builders don't want to take these steps because their goal is to get the boats off the factory floor and into the dealers' showrooms.
Good luck with the project. Since you will already be elbows deep in fiberglass, might as well check other areas of the boat that could be prone to rot. Gas tank, cabin floor, etc. - anywhere that screws can be run and exposed to water.
Good luck with the project. Since you will already be elbows deep in fiberglass, might as well check other areas of the boat that could be prone to rot. Gas tank, cabin floor, etc. - anywhere that screws can be run and exposed to water.
10-25-2014 | 04:24 PM
#68
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From: toledo oh
actually yeah might be good to start a transom specific thread in the FG&P section. I hate to say it but i keep forgetting we have other tech sections that have glass work in them lol. Fiberglass section, restoration section and do it yourself section . . . . . . i just gotta get out more often lol
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
10-25-2014 | 08:55 PM
#70
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From: KY
actually yeah might be good to start a transom specific thread in the FG&P section. I hate to say it but i keep forgetting we have other tech sections that have glass work in them lol. Fiberglass section, restoration section and do it yourself section . . . . . . i just gotta get out more often lol
