Originally Posted by Blueabyss

How much did the t/a run ya?

Chris

Originally Posted by airjunky

Looks like the brick is getting some serious love . I know of a guy who wants that old cam ...

Originally Posted by tommymonza

Not a huge fan of partial transom replacements but if they are done correctly and with Epoxy I believe they are more than sufficient.

I think cutting the plywood back to the stringers like you are doing is the ticket . I would than grind about 6 inches back into the glass from where the plywood is going to be replaced and also 6 inches back on the stingers and the bottom of the boat and also aggressively grind the area where the new plywood will be adhered to.

When I replaced transoms and cut my new plywood I would cut off the bottom of the Vee of that area where the drain plug goes through and than just meticulously lay up that small area with extra glass after the plywood was in. Now you have a solid fiberglass area that the drain plug runs through so no need to ever worry about the plywood soaking up water again. I feel in a boat like this that spends most of it's time in a slip with a couple inches of water that never seem to get out of the bilge that this is a nice preventive measure.

Template for your plywood and stagger the joints but towards the top not the bottom and laminate these together out of the boat with thickened epoxy and possibly a layer of 17 biaxe if you want to go crazy. Make sure you presoak the ply with resin and let it kick before you do the laminating and clamping of the 2 pieces but go easy on your clamping pressure so you don't squeeze everything out.

Let them dry overnight.

Again precoat the inner transom area and the plywood piece that you are setting and after it goes off mix up some thickened epoxy and set the plywood and clamp and bolt it in .after it is positioned and clamped fill any voids where the ply meets the old transom with more thickened epoxy.
Next day check your work for goobers that need to be knocked down if not proceed to laminate the inner portion with 3 layers of 17 ox biax laid in epoxy. . Cut your cloth so it comes back 5 inches onto the boats bottom and the stringers and also the old transom area.

I usually save the little cutout area where the drain plug goes for last and diligently work that.

I know Glass Dave is the resident guy but figured I would save him a lot of typing and I am bored. I know you have experience already doing a transom ,thought I would just give you my point of view. If Dave has any other pointers or feels there is a better way I would listen to him he has far more experience.

A little thing that always bothers me on boats is they mount the bilge pump on a pad so you are always stuck with 2 inches of water in the bilge. So If I was redoing a bilje or transom what I would do is this.

I position a new pump pad forward of the engine where it is accessible .. Than I measure from a couple inches back from my pump pad to about 4 inches in front of the drain plug . Than i take a scrap of divinycell and laminate it on both sides out of the boat. Now cut this piece after it has cured to the front to back dimensions you have and out about 6 to 8 inches.Cut and fit this piece so now you have a raised section that is an inch or 2 above your pump pad. So now you are left with a little sump area for your pump.

Laminate the piece in after grinding the bilge area back a few inches and also laminate the ends to seal it tight.

Now the most water you will ever have in your bilge is a cup full back by the drain and a half cup in the pump sump area.