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^^^What he said.^^^^
Some forms of motorsports use heads that need to offer more than what the manufacturer can give you (even cnc'd) and thus why your Brodix's and Dart's (and some Edelbrock's) and on and on it seems, are preferred by cylinder head porters because the casting is able to be manipulated into what they want. In fact, in the more extreme side of this spectrum, some of these companies offer heads that are labeled 'pro port' or etc that have very, very, very little machining done to them and 'shrunk up ports' that leaves more material for the porter to be able to remove and thus more room to put in what they want to put in. In other words: It's easier to remove material than it is to add, therefore, whomever's head that can be made into what they are really looking for, is what the cylinder head guy will start with. For most Hobbyists, getting something from the manufacturer that gives them what they want is why the discussions on boards like this : on: do I get AFR's / Brodix / Darts's / Edelbrock's or etc. Hard for me to type things like this so hopefully it is somewhat understandable. LOL. |
Here's a pic of a 'Pro Port.' Could you bolt this up and run ? Nah.....combustion chamber not done. Valve guide's ? Nope. valve seats. nope. Pushrod holes ? Nope.
Edelbrock 'Pro Ports' here: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...port-raw.shtml LS Pro Port http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ges/770469.jpg Pontiac Pro Port: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ages/77819.jpg Victor 24* BBC Pro-Port http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...s/sb/61429.jpg |
Originally Posted by Drew555
(Post 4230189)
On on the fence myself about airflow research heads. Not because I don't think there the best for my motor but I run salt water only. Can anyone tell me what kind of hours there getting out of there's in salt. It's a lot of cheddar to spend on something that's going to rot away lol.
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Originally Posted by bigboat28
(Post 4230570)
Which is the better head AFR or Dart and why?
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4230635)
afr has a hard anodize option for salt water use,if i remember correctly it is 175 bucks per set.
Edit in: I'm a hard onodizing freak. I am in a super fresh water lake and I even have my intake manifold hard anodized. Also remember, hard anodizing makes the surface coated electrically 'dead' (and thus why it's good protection against electrolysis) so grounds will be needed to be though out more. |
Originally Posted by Drew555
(Post 4230601)
crap. I already ordered but thanks anyway. Better off anyway. I think I would rather everything all new.
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Hey SB. Do you have to have the annodizing done with the valve seats removed?
I didn't think the steel seats would play nice in the anno tank. |
Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4231366)
Hey SB. Do you have to have the annodizing done with the valve seats removed?
I didn't think the steel seats would play nice in the anno tank. |
Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4231369)
I can answer that,seats need to be removed as well as any heli coils and valve guides.
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Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 4231395)
They don't have to be removed they can be masked off. This significantly increases the cost of anodizing.
I have a couple of places close by us that does the mil spec hard anodizing.they told me everything need to be removed before they'd put the pieces in their tank. when done mil spec,,surface is hard to scratch.afr's h.a. comes off w/ a lite touch of a sand paper roll. |
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