Yes, that's a pretty crazy correction factor, and unless you got the firing order wrong, or left a plug wire off, I don't think you'd only be seeing 530 observed. I think it should, and likely will make more power then it is now. I'd get a wide band in there for sure, or at the very least use one when yu put it in the boat.

Initial pull was his msd ignition and 32 timing. Afr is calculated by consumption not afr meter. No jet change just idle air bleed to lean the idle which still needs more leaning

I got a ngk afx powerdex wideband. I tried using it on dyno but wouldn't register any change it was stuck on 16. The bung was too close to the end of exhaust, the instructions say it needs to be far from the end to get right readings.

MT, you seen to be liking all the comments that make me nervous about the validity of my dyno numbers......not comforting what so ever....

I think there is certainly some tuning that still needs to be done on that engine. I don't see how calculating fuel consumption vs power at the flywheel, can give an accurate idea of the actual fuel mixture of the engine . gimme a shout tomorrow

If it is a setup like the Dyno i use its a calculation of airflow vs fuel flow

i did not realize the a/f ratio was measured without a wide band o2 sensor.dyno today without a wide band is kind of like shooting in the dark.that is how we did it in the old days.i highly recomend a wide band when the engine is installed in the boat.you might be in the danger zone with the existing tuneup.now i understand why the a/f and egt,s did not jive.i guess i am spoiled because the dyno i use makes it easy to get a close realistic tuneup.

Hey guys, bringing this back up as I should be able to get on water this Sunday. These last few months have been spent rigging and rerigging. currently trying to bleed the new steering, what a ***** that is. I will post up results as they come. This thing should spin my current 22 pitch bravos like crazy.

hope their is money in the budget for new props,you are going to need bigger pitch!

I'm back to document my progress, mishaps, and what to do now. I took Monday and yesterday off of work to get this in the water along with the weekend. Finally launched it on Monday.

Progress:
both motors tuned in at idle. vacuum holds steady at 11 in neutral and drops down to 9 in gear. Initial timing set to 27* and all in at 34* at around 2200rpm. Got it to WOT and port side topped out at 5200 rpm but STB side would spin out at over 4000 rpm. It pegged my tach at 6k. I tried feathering the throttle but couldn't really hold it steady at speed. I think the port side would spin a little more if it had more stability from the STB side.

Mishaps:
Idle tuned in on Monday then out for the open runs. We get going trying to plane and then hear backfire and STB dies. took a while to get started. I'm messing with mixture screws and changing coils trying to figure out. This happened about three times before we limped it home on port motor. LESSON LEARNED, change spark plugs. I forgot to change the plugs on that motor from last year when I was running way rich before the blower install. New set of plugs on Tuesday and woke her up.

What to do now:
After WOT run number 1 I open the hatch to find oil everywhere, coming out of the breathers and dipstick tubes. I clean it up and after WOT #2 I check again and now it's milkshake everywhere. OH ****!! moment. I didn't change out my breathers so maybe clogged and too much pressure? Now thinking of gettin puke tanks.

But still don't know why so much water in oil. I have the rear of the intakes plumped overboard with 1/4 hoses from each side to one 1/2 dump, steady stream at idle. Port water pressure is 10 at idle and 15-18 at wot, STB wp is under 5 at idle and 10 at WOT, don't know why so low on this one. Thinking of either restrictor plate at the intake water exit to exhaust or 1/8 lines at rear of intake.

Not thermostat so water temp is low. Oil temp doesn't warm up either until underway at at least 3500 rpm. At that point only 180* oil temp. a few more rpm and it might have touched 195*. I'm thinking restrictor plate to not only raise water pressure but to increase temp too, maybe. Would cold oil turn to milkshake after two runs. I mean when I pull the dipstick there is milky oil on it. We brougt it home and called it a day. This weekend I will pull an exhaust manifold and valve cover and start checking things by process of elimation as to how water in oil.