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Old 05-03-2015 | 08:09 AM
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Personally, I'd go with a roller. You can get a used 500 EFI cam for next to nothing. The roller lifters seem to be the biggest expense, but not when you factor in the cost for flat lifters that will actually live. Your engine will run better/stronger, and you'll have piece of mind knowing you don't have to worry about whether or not the cam was broken-in properly.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky24
From what I have seen through researching is its mostly the lifters that are the problem today, and its really important you find out exactly where your lifters were made. I might try to buy my lifters directly from mercruiser if i do this.
If your going to get your lifters from Merc... bend over. Merc doesn't make them, they get them from a supplier, I do think if you do some internet research you can find the best flat tappet lifter. Isky has a lifter with EDM holes for lube. There is lots of good stuff available, Tool steel,Ceramic, & DLC etc. Besides, a flat tappet will be easier on springs.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 10:52 AM
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just make sure you use a zinc additive during break in.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 11:50 AM
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f_in what did you use?

this is what i found from searching straight from rmbuilder in 2006

Here is the product on the Valvoline website. Be careful that when you purchase it they don't give you the (more common) VR-1 20/50 in it's place. Many sales personnel are not aware that Valvoline even offers the full racing synthetic. NAPA seems to be the most likely place to find it.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=95

No matter what oil used I have always used this product for the initial startup of every engine.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1016...oz-Bottle-.htm

Combine the EOS with a quality motor oil, pre time the engine, keep the run in speed @ 2000 RPM and watch your pushrods to be sure they are turning. This will greatly reduce the chances of cam/lifter failure due to lubrication issues. This will not insure against failures related to materials, the only way to control that is by core/lifter selection.
Bob
The sweet spot for lifter to boss clearance is .0013”-.0019”. Lifter to bore tolerance, bore concentricity, and taper should be checked in every application.

Bob

mesabalancing...

There is two great ways to follow the break in and know you wont have a failure the first and the one I use on the dyno is before you start the engine make sure you are as close to timing as possible and that you have fuel in the carb because you don't want to turn the engine over any more than neccesary to get it started and get the oil splashed from the bottom right away mark all the pushrods at the top with a white marker and when the engine gets started open the valve cover slightly and make sure all the pushrods are truning all the way around if they are all is good if they are not you're going to have trouble this is the only way to be 99 % sure if the lifter doesn't turn it will eat the lobe up. Best of luck to you hope this helps you Sincerely Laz Mesa
thread about lifter bore clearances...
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...lifters-7.html

Last edited by sparky24; 05-03-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TomZ
Personally, I'd go with a roller. You can get a used 500 EFI cam for next to nothing. The roller lifters seem to be the biggest expense, but not when you factor in the cost for flat lifters that will actually live. Your engine will run better/stronger, and you'll have piece of mind knowing you don't have to worry about whether or not the cam was broken-in properly.
There is no mechanical advantage to a roller lifter.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 05:33 PM
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Flat tappet lifters can live as long, if not longer than a roller lifter. There's a reason cummins is still using flat tappets today. Flat tappets don't have roller bearings to fail, tie bar linkage to fail. Now, if you run junk cam cores, junk lifters, wally world oil, and excessive spring pressure, during break in and or final setup, you'll likelyhood of a failure will be higher. Your basic hyd flat tappet, doesnt need, nor want, big spring pressures. 110-120 seat, 310-320 open, is generally a good setup.

Is there a performance advantage to a roller, yes. Due to the fact the lobe ramps can be more aggressive. I run roller cams, for the performance, not for the reliability. I've seen plenty of flat tappet cam setups last 20+ years, and thousands of hours in boats, or hundreds of thousands of miles in cars.

Theres 2 lifters I'd run with a flat tappet. First one, is the Crower cam saver lifters with the oiling groove in them, or at least, the GM stellite faced lifter. The crowers are around 100 bucks, as well as the GM performance ones.

So, I agree with Bawana, run the cam and go have fun.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 06:25 PM
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thanks for the post i just found that thread you made about this subject... these are the things i need to know.. im not sure i would trust a lifter set from crane or comp at this point either, not to say that it hasnt worked for others but will those lifters live at 5k rpm? Im almost more swayed toward a stock gm lifter at least you know they are made to a standard
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Old 05-03-2015 | 07:24 PM
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i have had good results with the crower cam saver lifters.
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Old 05-03-2015 | 09:10 PM
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Precision Pin makes most of the cup lifters. Very nice pieces but they aren't cheap.
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Old 05-05-2015 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sparky24
thanks for the post i just found that thread you made about this subject... these are the things i need to know.. im not sure i would trust a lifter set from crane or comp at this point either, not to say that it hasnt worked for others but will those lifters live at 5k rpm? Im almost more swayed toward a stock gm lifter at least you know they are made to a standard
I ran the GM performance lifters at 5300-5400 without any problems in the past. Springs were 110 closed, 310 open.
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