I had the same issue, running out of fuel pressure at 6000.
Changed over to the Baker higher pressure, plumbed in regulator and a tank return.
No more issues


Before :





After:

Dammit! You`re gonna make me buy chillers

No Idea on the fuel pump spring, I will call Baker on Monday and ask

I used the Comp Cams short travel race series lifters. They are quiet and they didn't collapse. That is about all I can say about them so far.

very good lifter,,thats what I put in a few motors,and they all see some rpm,,for long runs at a time.
I know they can last 90hrs at 275lbs on the seat.out of 32 lifters,only 1 failed catastrophically.

Those new comp short travels sparked my interest. The pricing doesnt seem to bad on them either. Seems like comp cams has stepped up their game lately

you can't go wrong w/ them and for the price.no brainer.
A member on this board went w/ morels,,noise right after fire up,idled them a few times,let them sit,,a day or 2,,fire back up,even noisier and running like schit. pulled engines down,4 out of 32 lifters collapsed.

I probably should have given those short travel lifters a try with new builds but stayed with solid rollers and cams. Going to stick with them for now anyway but hopefully these new comps will prove themselves to be trouble free. My luck short/long travel they'd probably fail given my history with hydraulics.

Any reason why std travel hyd lifters might be a thing of the past? Just thinking outload.

MT looks like you have electric fuel pressure gauge. I like that. You ever able to confirm electric is spot on or very close anyway to mechanical while at WOT? I see this being vital on SC builds considering the demand out of the fuel pumps etc.

Really no different than any other mechanical vs electronic gauges. In a sense the one on the fuel log that many utilize is ok to have if your concerned with pressure at idle... ya know.

Snapmorgan congrats on the build. When time permits call norm at competition fuel system (CFS) here in Michigan. You probably saw the low comp 548 thread smitty started and used that 850 holley carb he got from norm that flows like 1,100 cfm if I'm not mistaken. That's where mine are going next winter. But for now I'm going take it easy on my drives and call it good.

Did you get a flow sheet with your current carbs. I think you'd see some pretty good gains going to 1,000 cfm x2 but like you said all is good for now and you exceeded your goals for now.

That is what I was thinking too on bigger carbs, BUT, these carbs flow 830CFM and we measured the airflow on the dyno and we were only drawing 680CFM through each carb sitting on top of a 1" open spacer.. I now believe that they are plenty big enough. If I were going to buy some new carbs, I would buy some Willy's. They are local to me and build some of the finest carbs in the world. When I was dirt track racing, we used Willy's dyno for our engines in exchange for freshening up their Nascar test mules that they thrashed on every day. I saw several times on max effort small blocks, 730hp, 430ci, when we bolted on one of their carbs, it would pick up 30hp over anything else. Not too shabby for just replacing a carb