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winterizing question on 92 454 bravo

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Old 09-22-2017, 12:40 AM
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OK, I decided to go the method I've used in the past. Ran it on the muffs for 15 minutes (way more than enough time for thermostat to open), then turned off engine for no more than 10 seconds as I swapped the hose on the muffs to my funnel. Started engine and immediately started to pour pink rv plumbing antifreeze until I saw pink coming out exhaust. At that point had buddy start to spray fogging oil into carb as I continued to pour pink antifreeze - until the engine stalled. I used up 20L of the antifreeze.

So my question(s), as I'm still a little concerned as I did crack my block in my previous boat which had a 5.7 magnum in it:

1) as mentioned in my process, after 15 mins I turned off the engine for 10 seconds as I swapped hoses - I assume the thermostat would remain open after such a short shut-off - please confirm

2) with my method, is there any way for me to confirm the antifreeze made it all areas of the engine, or at least to confirm past the thermostat? There are 4 hoses to the thermo housing - if I disconnect each from the housing and see pink, does that mean it worked?

3) I'm considering adding a heat source inside the engine compartment over the winter as an added insurance. Is an incondescent light bulb good? Or should I go with a little portable heater - if so would you recommend a conventional unit or a infrared? I also have a spare heating blanket. Your thoughts? Is this even needed, or just a waste of electricity?

Thanks
If you used -50 RV antifreeze, I'd say at best you have 50/50 chance. Most likely your A/F is diluted with the water that was still in the engine.
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:46 AM
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post 5 and 6 in the link below --- is the other side of the coin. Most of these AF do not have enough corrosion inhibs in them anyways plus other info posted on my part. .All anti freeze is a form of Alcohol and needs to be PH balanced with enough corrosion inhibs into the mix for that end of protection against rust formation.

Also watch the video. Now if the slightest water is mix with the pink stuff it will expand. Even if no expansion the anti freeze gets solid as a rock (like in the video ) - It is rough on the impeller, the internals of the water circ pump and the T stat and so on, Think about it - you are freeze solid internal parts of your engine for months on end.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...02-magnum.html

I am not a fan of this period because, I have seen cracked parts from this form of winterizing. Especially the V6 intake manifold. Also in my case I have liability as well. warm and cold winter days - kids and or whomever takes the boat out in a warm week of Jan - 2 weeks later it freezes. Just saying on my end for that.
the idea that antifreeze or even propolene glycol mixtures don't have enough anti corrosive inhibitors is wrong. look at a car system. When's the last time glycol rusted out the internals. Never that I can remember.

when working for NASA on an ECLS system for the Orion space capsule we did exhaustive studies on the effects of propolene glycol and antifreeze on metal. Especially aluminum hx plate find with large surface area. We let the setup run for months on end while filtering debris thru 10 micron filters. We never observed delta P increases that would warrant concern with corrosion nor did we physically observe corrosion on parts. We even did immersion testing where parts were submerged and allowed to sit for weeks. Nothing. The content tested was nothing more than wal mart worthy antifreeze.


Secondly i dont don't know anyone in the northeast that doesn't recommend antifreeze. This includes, marinas, surveyors, offshore shops, etc...

just my 0.02.
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:57 AM
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most say for plumbing systems on the label and when have you seen any of these pink AF in auto cooling systems. I am not talking about dex cool here. Even boat heat exchangers closed cooling systems do not use this form of AF. There is a couple of reasons as to why they do not. I am talking about NON toxic propylene.

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Old 09-22-2017, 01:05 AM
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https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafit---50-f-marine-rv-water-system-glycol-alcohol-antifreeze-gal--14823330?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%2520-%2520Product%2520Type-_-14823330&product_id=14823330&adpos=1o6&creative=10 8421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAI aIQobChMImZDUnIG41gIVhpN-Ch2ZvgwoEAQYBiABEgLW7PD_BwE

Like I said plumbing systems and this one even says not for engines on bottle. If It does not say safe for internal engines / and or corrosion protection for all metals, I would not use it. Seen many use this for winterizing their engines because its pink and cheap and is advertised for boat wintertizations.

Plus I am sure the stuff that NASA used for testing was not 2 or 3 dollars a gallon product.. I am sure it was blended for what that specific testing need was for NASA.

I am sure they did not order the $ 1.99 Walmart propylene AF for space shuttle testing and thought it would cover the broad spectrum use of it. . .

Last edited by BUP; 09-22-2017 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 09-22-2017, 02:44 AM
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Indmar winterization NON cat marine engines. - No AF period and have this exact winterization in their owners manuals as well.

Also for the past 5 years Indmar sells more engine packages than Mercruiser. I am sure they know about winterizations as well and reliability of their branded engines.

http://www.inboardonline.com/library...1317923495.pdf
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:47 AM
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How do you also catch the antifreeze that comes out of the transom assembly from the Y-pipes?
Lift drive. Place Rubbermaid under drive then lower. Plumb your pvc from exhaust into container. It should catch everything within reason. Then hookup your muffs and your done.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:51 AM
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Indmar winterization NON cat marine engines. - No AF period and have this exact winterization in their owners manuals as well.

Also for the past 5 years Indmar sells more engine packages than Mercruiser. I am sure they know about winterizations as well and reliability of their branded engines.

http://www.inboardonline.com/library...1317923495.pdf
I prefer to go off experience, test results, and reports that I write rather than what someone else has generated. Sadly I can't divulge any more details. It's classified
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:36 AM
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What about draining the block and filling it with pure nitrogen? Wont freeze or corrode!!!
Fresh water cooled blocks are all rusty in side anyway, if there is that much concern go closed cooling.
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1 View Post
Lift drive. Place Rubbermaid under drive then lower. Plumb your pvc from exhaust into container. It should catch everything within reason. Then hookup your muffs and your done.
How big of a pump do I need? How many GPH?
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Old 09-26-2017, 02:07 PM
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Drain cooling system of water. Run Muffs with a short piece of hose to five gallon pail of anti freeze. Restart and run engine until antifreeze comes out of exhaust, (it takes me about 6Gal of coolant so have extra Antifreeze to add to five gallon pail when running) . Done.
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