From wet to dry tailpipes
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middleville, MI
I've currently got a set of silent choice lightning headers without the diverters going into jacketed dry tailpipes. Do to the way the system was originally put together, from a previous owner, the connected from header to tail is not water tight, there is a gap that was previously filled with high temp silicone. Because of this Im getting reversion and water in my oil. My plan, and what i am currently in the process of doing, is to weld all the water ports in the header closed, weld a 1/2" stainless fuel bung into the top of the headers waterjacket just after the collector and dump it out the back of the transom. My questions are: is 1/2" going to be a big enough bung/hose to dump the water without building up and excessive amounts of pressure. Also, is the heat coming off the tail jackets now without water going to cause any issues? I've debated opening up 2-3 of the small water port holes to allow a minimal amount of water still to pass through the tailpipes and to help relieve any pressure build up. thoughts?
Last edited by Torch253; 07-16-2019 at 05:15 AM.
#2
Registered

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,817
Likes: 898
I've currently got a set of lightning headers that are going into jacketed tailpipes so i don't introduce water into the exhaust until just before my mufflers. Do to the way the system was originally put together, from a previous owner, the connected from header to tail is not water tight. Because of this Im getting reversion back into the motor and water in my oil. My plan, and what i am currently in the process of doing, is to weld all the water ports in the header closed, weld a 1/2" stainless fuel bung into the top of the headers waterjacket just after the collector and dump it out the back of the transom. My questions are: is 1/2" going to be a big enough bung/hose to dump the water without building up and excessive amounts of pressure. Also, is the heat coming off the tail jackets now without water going to cause any issues? I've debated opening up 2-3 of the small water port holes to allow a minimal amount of water still to pass through the tailpipes and to help relieve any pressure build up. thoughts?
#4
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middleville, MI
What if I were to only close up half of the water ports? Would that still allow enough water into the tails for cooling and relieve enough of the pressure to get away with using 1/2" bungs/hoses?
#6
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middleville, MI
trust me I would love to by putting a new set of headers and matching tails on. But $3-5k isnt in the current budget. The headers seem to pressure test good so it's really a fitment issue between the header and tail. I'm trying to come up with a good proper way to fix that and make a good seal then I wont have to dump any water.
#8
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middleville, MI
#9
Registered

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,817
Likes: 898
that wasn’t a sarcastic comment at all. No cooling to a pipe passing thru your transom will result in a fire or significant boat damage. we are trying to be helpful.
#10
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middleville, MI
I agree, and I agree with the comment. However if someone says something is broken and asks for advice and someone else response is essentially "fix it" that also is a true statement yet not helpful. I was responding to others comments or questions on this thread, I did not continue to keep it alive alone. So sarcastically saying to keep it going with pictures seems uncalled for and less than helpful. Wouldnt you agree?



