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Old 12-30-2021, 10:16 AM
  #31  
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item #22 no o-ring on the 500 or 525 its inverted flare ?

Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 12-30-2021 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 12-30-2021, 10:32 AM
  #32  
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Okay. Thanks. That 481 filter mentioned above is for gm oring line. So, that would cause leak. Inverted flare would require different filter. Is line 3/8 ? Anyone know thread size/pitch.
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Old 12-30-2021, 10:57 AM
  #33  
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from Summit WIX-33481.........I dont see any where this calls for an o-ring


Fuel Filter Inlet Size:
16mm x 1.5
Inlet Attachment:
Female threads
Outlet Quantity:
1
Fuel Filter Outlet Size:
16mm x 1.5
Outlet Attachment:
Female threads
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Old 12-30-2021, 02:26 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
from Summit WIX-33481.........I dont see any where this calls for an o-ring


Fuel Filter Inlet Size:
16mm x 1.5
Inlet Attachment:
Female threads
Outlet Quantity:
1
Fuel Filter Outlet Size:
16mm x 1.5
Outlet Attachment:
Female threads
The line going to those has oring seal. That’s the fikter used for 90’s chevy trucks.
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Old 12-31-2021, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
no malice on anyones part. it’s proven fact that blue motor valve trains need to be built around 250-350 hours.
the biggest problem is the weak springs. most times they are 100lbs pre-load which is half what it should be to maintain a stable valve train. there have been numerous reports of failed rockers. Not sure if it is wide spread or limited production run.
sadly the bravo xr drive is due too…this is about the time the clutch goes and gears are severely pitted.
for peace of mind…both items should be gone thru and pressure test headers while your at it.
My springs and keepers were replaced at 300ish hours. My high pressure fuel filter went 450 hours because I didn't know it was there! It should be replaced every 100 hours and it's not as easy as it looks. It does require new O-rings and i was lucky to have some here that worked ( Adventures in 525 Fuel Filter Replacement ). I change my XR drive oil every year and if there is no excessive metal on the magnet i am not "going through" it. The cost of an upper rebuild with genuine Merc gears and clutch seems to approach the cost of an entire new upper anyway if you shop around. I did have one lifter collapse and had to pull the intake to replace that. With 500ish hours now my engine will be fully rebuilt soon. My headers have been trouble free but are the new type and in a single application with no long tailpipes and never salt water. I posted a pic above how I pressure tested my own headers. No need to send them anywhere.
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Old 12-31-2021, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by thirdchildhood
My springs and keepers were replaced at 300ish hours. My high pressure fuel filter went 450 hours because I didn't know it was there! It should be replaced every 100 hours and it's not as easy as it looks. It does require new O-rings and i was lucky to have some here that worked ( Adventures in 525 Fuel Filter Replacement ). I change my XR drive oil every year and if there is no excessive metal on the magnet i am not "going through" it. The cost of an upper rebuild with genuine Merc gears and clutch seems to approach the cost of an entire new upper anyway if you shop around. I did have one lifter collapse and had to pull the intake to replace that. With 500ish hours now my engine will be fully rebuilt soon. My headers have been trouble free but are the new type and in a single application with no long tailpipes and never salt water. I posted a pic above how I pressure tested my own headers. No need to send them anywhere.
my comment didn’t have anything to do with your boat or maintenance. It was a reaction to your comment that we are “scaring the crap out of the OP”.

we aren’t trying to scare anyone. better that they know than find out the hard way.
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Old 12-31-2021, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
my comment didn’t have anything to do with your boat or maintenance. It was a reaction to your comment that we are “scaring the crap out of the OP”.
we aren’t trying to scare anyone. better that they know than find out the hard way.
That was meant to be at least partially tongue in cheek but he asked about basic maintenance and now he "needs" to replace lifters, rockers, pushrods, rebuild drive and send his headers to CMI to be tested. I agree with the valve springs and that's not a difficult job to do without pulling the heads or intake manifold. Oh, and I do my impeller every two years now because it always still looks like new after two years. Now, what kind of oil should he run?
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Old 12-31-2021, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by articfriends
So this part # can replace the 500/525 inline filter and ends seat/ seal, screw in properly? I haven't found one that fits correctly is why I ask, Thanks
Now that i know lines are oringed,
Have you changed the orings at sametine ?
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Old 12-31-2021, 03:50 PM
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Not worth my time…good Luck to the OP.

Last edited by 1MOSES1; 12-31-2021 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 01-21-2022, 11:42 AM
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IM not the OP, but these threads on 525efi Maintenance always scare me! Yes, Ive done all the maintenance OP has on the list at this point. As I've shared with ThirdChild, getting that fuel filter out of the housing back behind the port exhaust is a bear!!! Hint, use a crows foot wrench and come in from the top with a drive and extension. Also, use an open end wrench below the canister (has a nut on it) to prevent canister from spinning. The fuel line coming in has a brass flare, and no o-ring. You dont want that to come unscrewed, mine did, and didnt think I would ever get it back together. Had to get a new canister from TCM with fresh threads on it.

Eddie at Young Performance is the man when it comes to top end refresh! I;ve got 218 hours on my 2007 525efi's. Have chatted with him at length, and when time, he will be doing my work.

Come on summer!
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