Color of the Drive lube after 35 Hrs ??
07-20-2007, 07:19 AM
#11
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Drive shower, I am using is a Simrek and it does work well. There are also other ones that do well, but I have not tested them.
If you want a real oil cooler system, I install a wet sump system on the Bravo, with cooler and filter, similar to Drew's cool swirl, but much differnt. Still in the testing stages, but results so far have been positive..
If you want a real oil cooler system, I install a wet sump system on the Bravo, with cooler and filter, similar to Drew's cool swirl, but much differnt. Still in the testing stages, but results so far have been positive..
07-20-2007, 01:19 PM
#13
Geronimo36
Gold Member
The official Amsoil "marine" lube (AGM) is on page 7. It's designed to mix with water unlike the Severe Gear (SVG) which is not.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1008.pdf
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1008.pdf
07-20-2007, 02:21 PM
#14
SeaRay Sundancer
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Drive shower, I am using is a Simrek and it does work well. There are also other ones that do well, but I have not tested them.
If you want a real oil cooler system, I install a wet sump system on the Bravo, with cooler and filter, similar to Drew's cool swirl, but much differnt. Still in the testing stages, but results so far have been positive..
If you want a real oil cooler system, I install a wet sump system on the Bravo, with cooler and filter, similar to Drew's cool swirl, but much differnt. Still in the testing stages, but results so far have been positive..
Is keeping the bravo extra cool and wet with a sump system like cool swirl any better than having stronger parts like IMCO that run as hot and as wet as OEM bravo.
07-23-2007, 07:44 AM
#16
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
What I belive is that keeping the oil cooler will help it work better. Instead of running it at it's max temps, running it cooler will help it keep parts lubricated better.
Spraying water on the outside does help, but cooling the oil directly is more effective.
There is no substitute for stronger parts. In my opinion, if you have enough power to break the teeth off of the helical gears, then it is time to step up to XR gears. No amount of cooling well help in that dept.
I hope this makes sense.. and helps.
D*ck
Spraying water on the outside does help, but cooling the oil directly is more effective.
There is no substitute for stronger parts. In my opinion, if you have enough power to break the teeth off of the helical gears, then it is time to step up to XR gears. No amount of cooling well help in that dept.
I hope this makes sense.. and helps.
D*ck
08-03-2007, 07:50 AM
#17
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Ok update !!!!
Ok guy , bad news , the drive fail in our last day of vacation . 28 hours and 526 miles round trip, the output bearing of the upper case of my drive seize , and the output shaft split , time to rebuilt
Last edited by 25 hors la loi; 08-03-2007 at 07:52 AM.
08-03-2007, 01:37 PM
#18
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Definately not good. I would be very concerned about the coupler as well. I can't believe it could have broke the input shaft without damaging the coupler.
Also, are you sure its a siezed bearing??? and not the upper gears???? that are locked.
Also, are you sure its a siezed bearing??? and not the upper gears???? that are locked.
08-04-2007, 09:11 AM
#19
VIP Member
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I think heat is the issue, is there any chalking on the sides of the drive? I went one weekend when one of my simreks broke, the one drive looked horrible, I upgraded both to the new tips and no problems since, and these are xr's on a 42 tiger...get simrek, 200 dollar cheap insurance.
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