RaggedEdge

Is there any specific that could cause an XR to run hot? Not looking for the run it too long, too hard answer. But for something in the actual set up of the drive when it is assembled.

Mr Gadgets

Yes if the shift linkage goes too deep, it will allow the cam to rub on the brass ring. That will cause excessive heat. Or if the gear stack is too tight, same thing.
Besides the normal, bad bearing, no lube, etc. But that would indicate a broken drive.

Hope this helps.
Dick

RaggedEdge

Thanks! Anything else to look for? The gear lube, Amsoil, has a burnt smell after 20 or so hours. Drive seems to work fine just concerned at this point, lube in the other drive is fine. Plan to change lube on both today and check magnets for any sign of metal.

07DominatorSS

Gadgets would know more than me about the drive, but that oil, shouldn't have any burnt smell at 20 hours, so there might be something else going on. Not trying to start any holy wars here, but that AMSOIL gear lube is the best on the market.

Velocity Vector

iTrader: (4)

Tell the wife to quit sitting on it....

25 hors la loi

It will not last for long ....the advise is split it appart and re-check tolerance ...i know they happen to me

Mr Gadgets

Is the drive new, or just been reassembled? I take it is freshly assembled.
If new gears are installed and the inner bearings are not washed and lubed properly, they can not spin on the tower and burn that up. But usually within 3-5hrs it will seize up and break.
If anything is too tight, it will cause heat. Either tear it back down or pull the back cap and look for signs of heat. The shift fork may be rubbing and it will be blue and worn deep. The shift cam at it's thickest point will have wear marks into the metal if they are rubbing hard on the brass rings.
Stuck or broken bearings will cause heat.
An inspection would be the best thing. You may be able to avoid real damage.
And no matter what oil you run.. it shouldnt smell burnt. There is something not right in there.

Dick

RaggedEdge

Too much fuzzie chit on the lower magnet so I had it gone thru, freshened would be the term I guess. New bearings , thrust bearings, upper drive shaft, top cap and bearing, seals etc. Gears and cone clutch were fine. Set up, pressure tested and reinstalled 20 +/- hrs ago. Noticed a little too much expansion in the bottle after a hard run and checked the lube, burnt smell, not good!

Don't think in any way that the Amsoil has anything to do with this, it's just running too hot, and looking for possble reasons. Dumped the lube this afternoon and it's toasted, also have the chunks on the magnets again, more so on the lower one than the upper.

Thanks for the info, keep it comming.

billet marine

Sounds like a tolerance problem somewhere...

Too tight pinion bearings are one of the things that I see most often and they generate TONS of heat.
Amsoil is good stuff but we have gone back to the good ole Merc HP oil for its "solids/suspension" package. Our experience is that the synthetics will drop gear oil temps but your metal to metal wear under high loads (Momentary high PSI) will increase. We also tested Red-Line that seemed a little better.

A Billet Water cooled topcap will drop 50+ degrees from gear oil temperatures on hard runs...
www.billetmarine.com

It would be well worth a tear down and inspection by a local shop...

Good luck, Curtis @ Billet Marine

07DominatorSS

Your statement doesn't make too much sense when it comes to synthetics. You say they'll drop temperature, however metal contact will increase? With more metal contact, more heat would be created. I've never seen, in my 20 years of business, a petroleum product out perform a high quality synthetic. If I were you, I'd do my testing again.