gear lube
05-24-2011, 09:06 AM
#111
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Neo this or Neo that... All I know is that Royal Purple is not going back in my drives. I run a Porsche dealer and we have a racing division and I purchased Neo 75W90RHD from my supplier and that is what I am going to run in my drives.
So as I understand it, someone is taking Neo gearlube and adding more stuff to it ??? So then if they are modifying it, then it really isn't Neo any more is it ????
I'm bowing out of this fight here. You guys will know if the oil does not work for me. For now I am going back to working on some gears that don't break as often.
Smitty
So as I understand it, someone is taking Neo gearlube and adding more stuff to it ??? So then if they are modifying it, then it really isn't Neo any more is it ????
I'm bowing out of this fight here. You guys will know if the oil does not work for me. For now I am going back to working on some gears that don't break as often.
Smitty
Neo is making this formula for us so yes it is Neo. I guess you can say a Rev-ed up version.
Keep us posted on the gear making!
05-24-2011, 12:06 PM
#112
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I can tell you that The Bravo Shop oil is made just for us with the additives we spec-ed out for each of the 3 lubes we make. And the only way to buy it is though The Bravo Shop Or if you are in the south Jason is selling it for me. I hope to have someone at LOTO selling it in about a month. As far as info on the oil goes it all takes time, if you have ever went out and done anything even close to this you would know what I'm talking about. Flier's, labels, testing is all very expense and time consuming. This is not the only thing I have to do so bear with me and I will get it all out to who ever would like to see it.
I'm in the same boat as the rest of you but with 3 drives and a terd of a boat, I also needed a fix for gear problems.
I'm in the same boat as the rest of you but with 3 drives and a terd of a boat, I also needed a fix for gear problems.
05-24-2011, 08:24 PM
#113
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I bit the bullet and thanks to Jason and the Bravo shop I have 5 gallons coming, it's only money! ANYTHING that will make the gears last longer is worth trying, I think I have destroyed/wore out at least 15 sets of lower gears, the idea of possibly getting closer to 100 hours from a set is VERY appealing to me, Smitty
05-25-2011, 08:49 AM
#114
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I find it amazing that you don't break uppers, only lowers. For me it is the opposite. I break teeth clean off of the port drive upper gears. And I ease it up on plane and never air it out. I just have a lot of torque !!
I find it amazing that you don't break uppers, only lowers. For me it is the opposite. I break teeth clean off of the port drive upper gears. And I ease it up on plane and never air it out. I just have a lot of torque !!
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Want your ECU tuned right?? Call Mark at Precision www.pmefi.com
Want your ECU tuned right?? Call Mark at Precision www.pmefi.com
05-25-2011, 09:02 AM
#115
Are you spinning in or out? I would always break uppers on the Stbd. side and I spin in.
05-25-2011, 09:42 AM
#116
I spin out. I'm sure since the port drive uses the top gear in forward that there is top cap flex to a degree. My deal is that I completely snap the whole tooth off. It breaks at the base. My motors make over 900 ft lbs torque so that is the issue.
And yes all of us with big power know we are far exceeding the limits of the drives. But the should hold up for a little longer in my opinion. That is why I am trying make stronger upper gear sets right now.
And yes all of us with big power know we are far exceeding the limits of the drives. But the should hold up for a little longer in my opinion. That is why I am trying make stronger upper gear sets right now.
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Want your ECU tuned right?? Call Mark at Precision www.pmefi.com
Want your ECU tuned right?? Call Mark at Precision www.pmefi.com
05-25-2011, 12:25 PM
#117
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On the surface what your saying would appear to be true BUT in actuality you are wrong. I have ran 750hp, then 950 hp and currently 1050 to 1100 hp (depending on my blower pulley) thru my max worx drive, I currently have the same upper gears I bought 8 or 9 years ago approaching 400 hours. Lower gears have always been a different story, when I had 750 hp they would last a whole season before failing (50-100 hours), When I increased my power to 950 they would last closer to 20-25 hours, when I went to 1050 plus hp they would last closer to 10 hours. I always ran Royal purple oil on the advice of "experts". I tried having additional heat treating done to my gears, diamond like coating and Cryo/iso finishing. I found that a set of Cryo/iso'd gears would last 20-30 hours-about a half of a season, I switched to a mix of Amsoil/lucas addittive and instantly my gears were lasting 40-60 hours before failing, a big improvement. If the Neo oil does give me a longer life span on my gears it WOULD be worth 200$ a gallon (although its actually only around 90$ a gallon). You could tell me I should have bought a imco scx or a B-max but when I started running this kind of power years ago the scx did not exist nor did any of the other current offerings and the B-max suffered from quality control problems and still used stock mercruiser bravo lower gears anyways and upper failure has never been a problem for me anyways. Necessity is the mother of invention and If the new owner of B-max has formulated a specially blended oil that increases gear life then that is a great thing, I have a serious investment in my current drive so I am not switching any time soon , my boat is getting old and I'm not going to dump another 15 or 20 K in a better drive. Now, will this new oil keep a Bravo based drive from shearing off a shaft or blowing up any of the other stock, non-upgraded parts, of course not but I am way past that, Smitty
05-25-2011, 12:30 PM
#118
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Read my other post, I am running FULL steel towers that extend completely thru my drive/ massive billet caps w/ 7/16 studs and I bought the gears in my current drive and my spare drive at a time that the quality control is claimed to have been better (03-05). My motor makes over 1000 ft lbs of tq and I still beat on it pretty hard at times taking off, but my boat is also much lighter than yours. I guess I am one of the lucky ones, Smitty
05-25-2011, 01:56 PM
#119
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I agree completely, guys try to build high hp motors and buy a off the shelf xr and then never perform internal inspections and wonder why they self destruct, I tear my drive down at least twice a season and just look over everything, I am running it past double its limit, I have found small parts/bearings that were on the verge of failure and fixed drive for next to nothing and lived to run another day, Smitty
06-10-2011, 03:43 PM
#120
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The 10W40 on the viscosity table looks same as 75W90, but a engine oil will not have EP additives to protect to protect in a gear unit. I spoke with guys who use it and others who use Torco RTF but there changing evey 10hours or less. John at the Bravo shop has a light weight gear oil also that can be used if you want less drag in the unit and still get longer life out the oil. MLW18 , i think he said a guy in Texas has be running now along with some other with great luck. I would call him and pic his mind great guy.
