Upgrading From Bravo Xr To...????
#11
+1...a bravo style drive is a bravo style drive...period. If its not vert shafts....then its gears. An SCX is the best option. You may scrub some speed with the current lower unit on the SCX...but they are working on an improved version. Or, send it to Wilson Performance and they can blueprint SCX lower to get most of your speed back.
#13
I have heard from reliable sources that the bravo conversion Arnesons do not perform as well as the other ASD setups. Besides....they are ridiculously expensive.
#14
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 793
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From: Sandusky/Olmsted Falls, OH
I just installed the ASD7M. Still involved in "tweaking" the set up. At this point, the only thing I can tell you they do handle/respond differently than my Bravo XR's. I do believe, once I get them dialed in, I will truly like them.
I did look at the Imco's as well and these appear to be very good drives and comes highly recommended by others. SCX is a step up from the Bravo's.
I did look at the Imco's as well and these appear to be very good drives and comes highly recommended by others. SCX is a step up from the Bravo's.
#15

As for cost, they are less expensive than a Bravo setup so .....
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Arneson Surface Drives www.arneson-industries.com
Arneson Surface Drives www.arneson-industries.com
#16
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 468
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From: Union, NE
I am currently running Bravo XR drives with IMCO -2 lowers on a 35 single step Fountain Lightning that I just purchased.
The boat currently has big power (850 HP) and I keep snappling the verticle shafs in the drives (three times this season). I am currently looking at de-tuning the motors to try to avoid this problem (changing the blower pully and turning the power down to 650 HP).
Is there any option to upgrade the drives to something else that can handle the power and not cost me an arm and a leg? If not Ill be looking for a new boat in a couple of months.
The boat currently has big power (850 HP) and I keep snappling the verticle shafs in the drives (three times this season). I am currently looking at de-tuning the motors to try to avoid this problem (changing the blower pully and turning the power down to 650 HP).
Is there any option to upgrade the drives to something else that can handle the power and not cost me an arm and a leg? If not Ill be looking for a new boat in a couple of months.
The Bmax will work perfect on that application and you won't be with out your boat for months putting it in and spending precious summer time trying to dial it in. JMHO.
#17
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 40
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From: Barrie, ON
Thats 850 a side. I have a pair of 540 cubic inch blower motors, just came off the dyno.
I just dont want to replace the shafts, and have the gears blow, or something else in the bravo set up.
Other people I talk to say that the most that the braos can handle are 600 hp, and you will still need to grandmother the throtles.
But if you are actualy running the bravo conversion on your own boat, please let me know. I dont want to hear from someone who heard something.... and so on....
I just dont want to replace the shafts, and have the gears blow, or something else in the bravo set up.
Other people I talk to say that the most that the braos can handle are 600 hp, and you will still need to grandmother the throtles.
But if you are actualy running the bravo conversion on your own boat, please let me know. I dont want to hear from someone who heard something.... and so on....
#18
The B Max drive is not just an upgraded Bravo. Everything is different and all the internals are bigger and stronger. Bigger gears, shafts and closer tolerances.
#19
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 111
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From: Henderson, Nv
Mk- for what it's worth, I switched to a bmax this spring from what most would call a pretty extreme xr. My boat is a single engine 28' scarab that weighs in at about 6000 lbs running weight. I've been running over 1700 hp through the bmax since April with no signs of gear wear. Prior to the bmax, I ran through xr and Imco drives in about 2 hours each before I was left with a few salvageable parts. I would say for the money and ease of setup, the bmax is the way to go. I'd also say that at 850 hp in a light, efficient hull- you'll probably never hurt a bmax as long as you follow the bravo shops recommendations on gear oil and service intervals. The only down side of a bmax versus an xr is weight, but stronger always means either heavier or way more expensive... Just my 2 cents
#20
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 127
From: Lees Summit ~ LOTO 10MM
Thats 850 a side. I have a pair of 540 cubic inch blower motors, just came off the dyno.
I just dont want to replace the shafts, and have the gears blow, or something else in the bravo set up.
Other people I talk to say that the most that the braos can handle are 600 hp, and you will still need to grandmother the throtles.
But if you are actualy running the bravo conversion on your own boat, please let me know. I dont want to hear from someone who heard something.... and so on....
I just dont want to replace the shafts, and have the gears blow, or something else in the bravo set up.
Other people I talk to say that the most that the braos can handle are 600 hp, and you will still need to grandmother the throtles.
But if you are actualy running the bravo conversion on your own boat, please let me know. I dont want to hear from someone who heard something.... and so on....



