Bravo one removal
#1
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Joined: Apr 2011
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helping a friend remove his outdrive (bravo 1) neither of us have done it before but everybody says it is fairly easy. do we put it in drive or neutral before we remove it is my only question at this point.
another thing almost forgot the drive cables are disconnected from the motor so I have no idea what postion the cable is in at this point. I was going to go and look at my boat and compare my cable to his as a comparison. hopefully I can figure it out by mine
Any other pointers would be helpful would be great also.
another thing almost forgot the drive cables are disconnected from the motor so I have no idea what postion the cable is in at this point. I was going to go and look at my boat and compare my cable to his as a comparison. hopefully I can figure it out by mine
Any other pointers would be helpful would be great also.
#2
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: ankeny,ia.
Doesnt matter on the shifter position,
You may have the speedo hose that plugs in right below the exhaust inlet of the helmet that
you'll need to disconnect if it's still intact..... it's yellow in color and you rotate it 90* and it should pull right out.
The rest is the 6 nuts holding the drive on, and the trim cyl pin and off it will come.....when it comes out
a little way, just check to make shure the latch jaw on the shift lever ( in the drive) opens and releases the shift cable.
You may have the speedo hose that plugs in right below the exhaust inlet of the helmet that
you'll need to disconnect if it's still intact..... it's yellow in color and you rotate it 90* and it should pull right out.
The rest is the 6 nuts holding the drive on, and the trim cyl pin and off it will come.....when it comes out
a little way, just check to make shure the latch jaw on the shift lever ( in the drive) opens and releases the shift cable.
#5
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 27
From: Clearwater, Mn
I did the, watch 6 thousand youtube videos, when I removed mine and it was still a pain in the ass!!! Dam near was using a slide hammer to pull it backwards!!! Then to get it back on, that was another PITA!.
Seemed like to me that the 2 o-rings on the input shaft was/is the issue and getting the one threw the gimbal bearing!! a pound of grease and and can of WD40 later I was able to squeeze it on using the 6 studs and nuts. 1/4 turn a piece one at a time.
Seemed like to me that the 2 o-rings on the input shaft was/is the issue and getting the one threw the gimbal bearing!! a pound of grease and and can of WD40 later I was able to squeeze it on using the 6 studs and nuts. 1/4 turn a piece one at a time.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 3
From: indianapolis
Sometimes they are hard to remove but if the gimble/couple are aligned it should go back on fairly easy. If your using the studs and nuts to pull it all the way on there is usually an alignment issue.
#7
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,397
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From: Somewhere in Ohio
+1 I would certainly check alignment if you are having that much trouble getting it back together. I have fought with them coming off, but I would NEVER use the nuts to pull the drive on.



