Did someone that specializes in Bravo drives do the repair this time?
I find it hard to believe that lack of proper torque would cause that to happen.
The only way that could happen is if something were missing or something were installed in the wrong order.
Unless this time it was serviced by a drive expert I wouldn't run it until it is.

That wear is the byproduct of the pinion bearings losing their preload, seen it many times, that washer goes between the input yoke and the front pinion bearing cone, once the preload starts to go,
The pinion can wiggle around, from the load being applied to it, the washer isn't compressed any more and is free to spin, further amplifying the issue.

Good question..This washer is located between the 2 bearings that are pressed onto the gear and the seal at the other end. It is considered a inner washer No metal filings were seen in the carrier and the input shaft and components, bearings, spacers were disassembled inspected and cleaned before re-assembly. I use Amsoil marine gear lube that is a clear drive oil..After draining the drive and removing the magnets nothing was seen. That washer has a groove in it when new. It only ran for 10 minutes at idle..It probably would have been worse under load

I agree...The person that originally worked on it was Merc..certified But..could have put that washer in the wrong way..It was assembled by a different person this time an expert in drives..

JaayTeee.. So your saying that the pre-load wasn;t set tight enough or the old nylon lock nut backed off. I made sure they used a new lock nut this time

Thanks I will relay this

That wear is what I've seen after a drive had a bit of time on it, not something that was just put back together ( after seal/
u-joint replacement) and not ran for a very long time, no less, not under load....my guess is that washer wasn't replaced.

If they did put the washer on backwards that would explain a lot of things...the washer is stepped, the step goes inside of the bearing, you flip that around, the shaft won't be able to go in as far as it should....probably not even far enough to get to the elastic part of the nut.

interesting he probably had the beveled washer in wrong
I found this to be helpful also
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0SlzpJBhEM&t=467s

I agree, the spanner nut did not do that, it was ran with no rolling preload torque on upper pinion bearings,

Ok.. Drive back on..Started her up and ...No rattling noises...Apparently it was little to no pre-load and that worn washer ....I appreciate everyone's help

NEW UPDATE....SAME PROBLEM...Took the boat out for a short ride last weekend...Prior to that I decided to change the complete input shaft just to be sure...Re set the rolling pre-load with the drive oil on bearings to 6 inch lbs..Book says 3 to 7 used bearings...Used a torque wrench as the manual says to, tighten spanner nut...Torque wrench set for 120 @ 18" long with merc spanner tool @ 12" long gives you a torque of 200 ft lbs.Put drive back on boat. Started her up nice and quiet... As previously stated went for a 1 hour ride.. Kept rpm's under 4000...NO issues.. Got back to the marina put the boat back on the trailer. I always rinse my motors, Started her up and that same rattle noise was back 2 fold....Louder than ever.. We install another new seal, lock nut and red locktite. How can it be loosing preload???
Need help Please???