Single engine V...random drive thought
05-14-2018 | 08:58 AM
#11
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 922
Likes: 54
From: Lago Vista TX
I TOO went through the SAME dilemma when building my boat . (1000hp Procharged 29' Velocity)
.
I spoke with Rik about the Arneson conversion.. I didn't get to EXACT measurements, but it seemed I would have to remount my engine lower and maybe fill in a little of my notch.. I spoke with Steve Stepp about it and he had never had good luck with a surface drive singe.. maybe he was trying the older stuff.. I don't know.
I also spoke with Bblades.. Their take was it would work, but likely be difficult and time consuming to prop.. I just didin't have the time or funds to mess with it so I chickened out.
SO, I rigged it with an XR for now.. 1.35 Ratio. Max Machine shafts. Imco lower. Amsoil severe gear 75-110.. and I change the oil OFTEN..
Have 20 hours on it so far and give it a hug every time it gets me back to the dock
Future plans are an SCX upper and likely a -2 Imco lower and just watch the magnet every time I bring it in and swap out / rebuild the lower as needed...
From MY research it's more than a "little" speed increase...
Seems the SC lower is about 10 MPH faster than the SCX lower on a V.. Cat, not so much as the X is usually higher. Yeah, Wilson may be able to get some of that back with blueprinting, but no guarantee. i REALLY don't want to give up THAT much speed...
hopefully some other development will come along.. Especially since Weismann just bought Speedmasters..
Maybe an affordable stand off box mounted transmission # 5 or #4 drive...
.
I spoke with Rik about the Arneson conversion.. I didn't get to EXACT measurements, but it seemed I would have to remount my engine lower and maybe fill in a little of my notch.. I spoke with Steve Stepp about it and he had never had good luck with a surface drive singe.. maybe he was trying the older stuff.. I don't know.
I also spoke with Bblades.. Their take was it would work, but likely be difficult and time consuming to prop.. I just didin't have the time or funds to mess with it so I chickened out.
SO, I rigged it with an XR for now.. 1.35 Ratio. Max Machine shafts. Imco lower. Amsoil severe gear 75-110.. and I change the oil OFTEN..
Have 20 hours on it so far and give it a hug every time it gets me back to the dock
Future plans are an SCX upper and likely a -2 Imco lower and just watch the magnet every time I bring it in and swap out / rebuild the lower as needed...
From MY research it's more than a "little" speed increase...
Seems the SC lower is about 10 MPH faster than the SCX lower on a V.. Cat, not so much as the X is usually higher. Yeah, Wilson may be able to get some of that back with blueprinting, but no guarantee. i REALLY don't want to give up THAT much speed...
hopefully some other development will come along.. Especially since Weismann just bought Speedmasters..
Maybe an affordable stand off box mounted transmission # 5 or #4 drive...
Last edited by Boatally Insane; 05-14-2018 at 09:41 AM.
05-14-2018 | 02:30 PM
#12
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I just went through this dilemma with a tad over 700hp in a Donzi 27ZR.
I ended up with a Teague Platinum XR 1.5 ratio with an IMCO lower. I know this is not the strongest setup but there are definitely pros and cons to all the other alternatives.
My second choice was an SCX but I backed away because I wasn't willing to take the chance of speed loss. Time will tell how the Teague holds up, but I change the fluid OFTEN.
I ended up with a Teague Platinum XR 1.5 ratio with an IMCO lower. I know this is not the strongest setup but there are definitely pros and cons to all the other alternatives.
My second choice was an SCX but I backed away because I wasn't willing to take the chance of speed loss. Time will tell how the Teague holds up, but I change the fluid OFTEN.
05-18-2018 | 07:44 AM
#13
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 298
From: Sodus MI
Very good into guys thanks for the comments!! I'm thinking for now its gonna be a "boring" season limping it through with current drive setup and collecting parts this summer for a drive upgrade to follow...so what is it with an scx that loses speed?? Is the lower like crazy big or something??
Stewart
Stewart
05-18-2018 | 08:43 AM
#14
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 112
So as I look at the future of my boat and realize I will more than likely be plagued with drive problems as its a 28 ft single engine 650-700 hp bravo boat...it has made me start to think outside the box for drive options...so what are the standard options at this HP...IMCO...take your chances with XR's..Teague platinum maybe??
Here's some out of the norm suggestions...anyone ever seen any of this??
1. Arneson..I started a thread about this a week or so ago and it really just made me think more...seems like this would be a good option however setup might be a nightmare and there's the obvious cost involved...along those lines..if you had a bravo boat to begin with would you do a bravo/arneson conversion or fill in the back of the boat and just go straight arneson???
2.#6 drive...Maybe the most expensive option especially if you're going with a dry sump 6...news to me through endeavors thread...rebuilds around 250 hours which for the cost seems insane to me but I guess is the nature of the beast...Also from a rigging stand point...will it be mandatory to move the engine forward or is putting the trans in an extension box possible on a 6?? I would think weight would also have to be considered...that's A LOT of added weight to the back of the boat...will this negate any speed/reliability aspect of going to the 6 to begin with??
3. #3,4,or 5 speedmasters...this one has me most curious and is honestly why I started this thread...I specifically talking about my power level....why not find a nice used # 3,4, or 5 and have tons of trouble free boating without the cost and weight of a 6 and without the setup quarls of an areneson?? I'm just spitballing here as I have no experience with any of the speedmaster drives but I've seen boats rigged with 4's or 5's with some big power....again..would putting the trans in a box be an option with these or would the engine have to be moved?? I realize parts may be hard to find for these but for the cost of complete units nowadays it seems that you could buy a couple as spares and be good for a very long time?? Would a 3.4. or 5 hold up behind 650-700 HP?? How bad would it be to set one up on a single??
So what are some thoughts on what I listed here?? Just kinda spitballing on what all my options would be when it is time to go above and beyond and end my bravo failures?? Just kinda a random what's out there is this possible lets have a fun good talk about these options...
Please no drama...Just want this to be fun and informative for everyone questioning drives and setting them up on single or even twin engine applications and more specifically to my 28 heat
Stewart
Here's some out of the norm suggestions...anyone ever seen any of this??
1. Arneson..I started a thread about this a week or so ago and it really just made me think more...seems like this would be a good option however setup might be a nightmare and there's the obvious cost involved...along those lines..if you had a bravo boat to begin with would you do a bravo/arneson conversion or fill in the back of the boat and just go straight arneson???
2.#6 drive...Maybe the most expensive option especially if you're going with a dry sump 6...news to me through endeavors thread...rebuilds around 250 hours which for the cost seems insane to me but I guess is the nature of the beast...Also from a rigging stand point...will it be mandatory to move the engine forward or is putting the trans in an extension box possible on a 6?? I would think weight would also have to be considered...that's A LOT of added weight to the back of the boat...will this negate any speed/reliability aspect of going to the 6 to begin with??
3. #3,4,or 5 speedmasters...this one has me most curious and is honestly why I started this thread...I specifically talking about my power level....why not find a nice used # 3,4, or 5 and have tons of trouble free boating without the cost and weight of a 6 and without the setup quarls of an areneson?? I'm just spitballing here as I have no experience with any of the speedmaster drives but I've seen boats rigged with 4's or 5's with some big power....again..would putting the trans in a box be an option with these or would the engine have to be moved?? I realize parts may be hard to find for these but for the cost of complete units nowadays it seems that you could buy a couple as spares and be good for a very long time?? Would a 3.4. or 5 hold up behind 650-700 HP?? How bad would it be to set one up on a single??
So what are some thoughts on what I listed here?? Just kinda spitballing on what all my options would be when it is time to go above and beyond and end my bravo failures?? Just kinda a random what's out there is this possible lets have a fun good talk about these options...
Please no drama...Just want this to be fun and informative for everyone questioning drives and setting them up on single or even twin engine applications and more specifically to my 28 heat
Stewart
Single engine 30' with a #6
Boat always ran like it was on rails.
Personally worth the extra money, with the Hydraulic steering built in and so much drive in the water
it is a huge safety stand point for handling and as a bonus the internals your mechanically sound.
Jon
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05-18-2018 | 09:39 PM
#16
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 922
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From: Lago Vista TX
05-19-2018 | 08:29 PM
#20
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,612
Likes: 7
From: ALTO, MI
I had Standard Bravo uppers with IMCO -2 shorties behind 650 HP for many years on my 34 Scarab and the only problem I had was a known defect in the IMCO vertical shaft. snapped it clean right above the lower bearing.
I plan on going to the SCX -3 upper with one of my IMCO SC -3 lowers on my Daytona.
I plan on going to the SCX -3 upper with one of my IMCO SC -3 lowers on my Daytona.
