Single engine V...random drive thought
#1
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Single engine V...random drive thought
So as I look at the future of my boat and realize I will more than likely be plagued with drive problems as its a 28 ft single engine 650-700 hp bravo boat...it has made me start to think outside the box for drive options...so what are the standard options at this HP...IMCO...take your chances with XR's..Teague platinum maybe??
Here's some out of the norm suggestions...anyone ever seen any of this??
1. Arneson..I started a thread about this a week or so ago and it really just made me think more...seems like this would be a good option however setup might be a nightmare and there's the obvious cost involved...along those lines..if you had a bravo boat to begin with would you do a bravo/arneson conversion or fill in the back of the boat and just go straight arneson???
2.#6 drive...Maybe the most expensive option especially if you're going with a dry sump 6...news to me through endeavors thread...rebuilds around 250 hours which for the cost seems insane to me but I guess is the nature of the beast...Also from a rigging stand point...will it be mandatory to move the engine forward or is putting the trans in an extension box possible on a 6?? I would think weight would also have to be considered...that's A LOT of added weight to the back of the boat...will this negate any speed/reliability aspect of going to the 6 to begin with??
3. #3,4,or 5 speedmasters...this one has me most curious and is honestly why I started this thread...I specifically talking about my power level....why not find a nice used # 3,4, or 5 and have tons of trouble free boating without the cost and weight of a 6 and without the setup quarls of an areneson?? I'm just spitballing here as I have no experience with any of the speedmaster drives but I've seen boats rigged with 4's or 5's with some big power....again..would putting the trans in a box be an option with these or would the engine have to be moved?? I realize parts may be hard to find for these but for the cost of complete units nowadays it seems that you could buy a couple as spares and be good for a very long time?? Would a 3.4. or 5 hold up behind 650-700 HP?? How bad would it be to set one up on a single??
So what are some thoughts on what I listed here?? Just kinda spitballing on what all my options would be when it is time to go above and beyond and end my bravo failures?? Just kinda a random what's out there is this possible lets have a fun good talk about these options...
Please no drama...Just want this to be fun and informative for everyone questioning drives and setting them up on single or even twin engine applications and more specifically to my 28 heat
Stewart
Here's some out of the norm suggestions...anyone ever seen any of this??
1. Arneson..I started a thread about this a week or so ago and it really just made me think more...seems like this would be a good option however setup might be a nightmare and there's the obvious cost involved...along those lines..if you had a bravo boat to begin with would you do a bravo/arneson conversion or fill in the back of the boat and just go straight arneson???
2.#6 drive...Maybe the most expensive option especially if you're going with a dry sump 6...news to me through endeavors thread...rebuilds around 250 hours which for the cost seems insane to me but I guess is the nature of the beast...Also from a rigging stand point...will it be mandatory to move the engine forward or is putting the trans in an extension box possible on a 6?? I would think weight would also have to be considered...that's A LOT of added weight to the back of the boat...will this negate any speed/reliability aspect of going to the 6 to begin with??
3. #3,4,or 5 speedmasters...this one has me most curious and is honestly why I started this thread...I specifically talking about my power level....why not find a nice used # 3,4, or 5 and have tons of trouble free boating without the cost and weight of a 6 and without the setup quarls of an areneson?? I'm just spitballing here as I have no experience with any of the speedmaster drives but I've seen boats rigged with 4's or 5's with some big power....again..would putting the trans in a box be an option with these or would the engine have to be moved?? I realize parts may be hard to find for these but for the cost of complete units nowadays it seems that you could buy a couple as spares and be good for a very long time?? Would a 3.4. or 5 hold up behind 650-700 HP?? How bad would it be to set one up on a single??
So what are some thoughts on what I listed here?? Just kinda spitballing on what all my options would be when it is time to go above and beyond and end my bravo failures?? Just kinda a random what's out there is this possible lets have a fun good talk about these options...
Please no drama...Just want this to be fun and informative for everyone questioning drives and setting them up on single or even twin engine applications and more specifically to my 28 heat
Stewart
#2
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Don't waist your money on a Teague Platinum, it's just a Bravo XR with Teagues "special" shafts. IMO its no better than a standard XR. I used to have IMCO SC drives with 650 hp engines in front of them. They are certainly a step up from an XR, BUT the gears and shafts are still XR. The case and top cap, as well as the steel tower are WAY stouter, so there is certainly less flex with an Imco.
Right now I have SSM 4's for my Scarab, but I just don't think they are strong enough for my engines. However with your power an older SSM 3,4,3a or 5 would be a nice option. And a 3 can be purchased for the same or less then an XR. Just make sure you have the room for transmission if you go with an SSM set up.
Right now I have SSM 4's for my Scarab, but I just don't think they are strong enough for my engines. However with your power an older SSM 3,4,3a or 5 would be a nice option. And a 3 can be purchased for the same or less then an XR. Just make sure you have the room for transmission if you go with an SSM set up.
#3
the bravo conversion arneson has the transmission in the stand off box.
don't think you could do the same w/ a 4-5-6 ? not sure
if your thinking about going to a transmission drive, now would be the time to prep the boat for it
(since it's apart and your doing some floor and glass work) because the transmission will push
the engine forward approx 10-11 inches.
since you have saddle tanks, nothing is in your way to lengthen your engine room 12-18 inches
to accommodate it, but there goes that much of the cockpit.
don't think you could do the same w/ a 4-5-6 ? not sure
if your thinking about going to a transmission drive, now would be the time to prep the boat for it
(since it's apart and your doing some floor and glass work) because the transmission will push
the engine forward approx 10-11 inches.
since you have saddle tanks, nothing is in your way to lengthen your engine room 12-18 inches
to accommodate it, but there goes that much of the cockpit.
#4
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Right...that's kinda what I was thinking...another one of those...I'm here now so might as well hahaha....I have plenty of room to move the engine forward basically as much as I want...losing 10-12 inches of cockpit room isn't a huge deal....what would have to be done at the transom?? basically glass it all in and start over?? plus I would have to buy a prop...being I don't know anything about these drives...are there different ratios like bravos or is that all in the trans?? what trans would one look for when doing this??
Anyone know if mounting a trans in an extension box with a 3.4.5 SSM is possible??
Is there a specific version of the drive I should look for??
Anyone know if mounting a trans in an extension box with a 3.4.5 SSM is possible??
Is there a specific version of the drive I should look for??
#5
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Don't waist your money on a Teague Platinum, it's just a Bravo XR with Teagues "special" shafts. IMO its no better than a standard XR. I used to have IMCO SC drives with 650 hp engines in front of them. They are certainly a step up from an XR, BUT the gears and shafts are still XR. The case and top cap, as well as the steel tower are WAY stouter, so there is certainly less flex with an Imco.
Right now I have SSM 4's for my Scarab, but I just don't think they are strong enough for my engines. However with your power an older SSM 3,4,3a or 5 would be a nice option. And a 3 can be purchased for the same or less then an XR. Just make sure you have the room for transmission if you go with an SSM set up.
Right now I have SSM 4's for my Scarab, but I just don't think they are strong enough for my engines. However with your power an older SSM 3,4,3a or 5 would be a nice option. And a 3 can be purchased for the same or less then an XR. Just make sure you have the room for transmission if you go with an SSM set up.
So you're saying you might have a SSM 4 for sale soon?? hahahah
#6
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Another thought...would a bravo conversion arneson negate all of the setup issues that I've heard can come with them?? would it be a simple bolt it on...set it and forget it kind of deal??
#7
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All of these options will take moving engines, glassing transom, plus custom parts. None of them will be bolt on.
I agree with E32, don't waste your money on any bravo based drive that still uses XR gears
An SCX upper and lower spinning a 4blade bravo or 5 blade Maximus prop would be your easiest upgrade and it's rated for 800hp, with many pushing 1000-1200. The only bravo upgrade not using bravo parts still!
I do love the ASD7 but it's not an easy bolt on, but no drive spinning an offshore style prop will be
You can have a custom extension box to house a trans made for any of these drives
I agree with E32, don't waste your money on any bravo based drive that still uses XR gears
An SCX upper and lower spinning a 4blade bravo or 5 blade Maximus prop would be your easiest upgrade and it's rated for 800hp, with many pushing 1000-1200. The only bravo upgrade not using bravo parts still!
I do love the ASD7 but it's not an easy bolt on, but no drive spinning an offshore style prop will be
You can have a custom extension box to house a trans made for any of these drives
#8
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Right I understand that but is a bravo conversion arneson designed to be bolt on plug and play essentially?? I'll have to research it more but I thought it was??
So let's go this way...if one was to make a custom extension box to house a trans...what would be best?? starting from scratch?? going off of an arneson conversion box??
How do x-dimension and prop height factor into these as they are all surfacing drives if I'm not mistaken...so lets say a #4 SSM...would you want propshaft even with bottom of the boat?? higher?? lower?? where would you begin trying to figure that out??
What gears are used in an SCX imco?? are they imco special made gears?? I honestly don't know so just curious
Again I'm not trying to disagree with anyone or start drama...just trying to have a good drive discussion
So let's go this way...if one was to make a custom extension box to house a trans...what would be best?? starting from scratch?? going off of an arneson conversion box??
How do x-dimension and prop height factor into these as they are all surfacing drives if I'm not mistaken...so lets say a #4 SSM...would you want propshaft even with bottom of the boat?? higher?? lower?? where would you begin trying to figure that out??
What gears are used in an SCX imco?? are they imco special made gears?? I honestly don't know so just curious
Again I'm not trying to disagree with anyone or start drama...just trying to have a good drive discussion
#10
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Yes the SCX has its own larger gears and shafts
The SC is a beefed up XR like every other brand
I don't agree with the SCX upper SC lower combo unless you are willing to lose reliability for a little speed increase, and continue to freshen your SC lower almost as often as an XR, plus risking taking out the SCX upper when the lower prematurely wears or breaks. Very popular combo though and still a nice improvement over an XR
The SC is a beefed up XR like every other brand
I don't agree with the SCX upper SC lower combo unless you are willing to lose reliability for a little speed increase, and continue to freshen your SC lower almost as often as an XR, plus risking taking out the SCX upper when the lower prematurely wears or breaks. Very popular combo though and still a nice improvement over an XR