Recommend me a new stereo...
03-02-2015 | 11:16 AM
#31
Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
Should sound ok. Depending on your sound preference, a sub with enclosure will deliver significantly better bass. Maybe not important, just a comment.
Really need to spend some time understanding how it is currently wired, both switches and charging.
Your boat is a little out of my familiarity with rigging and general system requirements but starting and operation duties should be able to be combined under a single battery while the alternator charging can be sent another direction. On the other hand, a recreational 47 should have enough room to add more batteries without touching the existing system and not be significantly impacted by an extra 150# of lead.
A point to stress, standard battery chargers like the Promariner WILL BURN UP if attempting to play an amplified stereo while charging, especially with discharged batteries. A Power Supply is the correct tool for the job to power, charge and maintain a battery (within the ratings of that power supply) The 55amp and two batteries (or one big 8D) should handle the transient draws of those two ampifiers.
As with anytime a PS will be used, it is better to start the PS earlier in the day if you know it is going to be a long, hard day of playing. It still strains the PS to try to maintain adequate voltage with a depleted battery.
Really need to spend some time understanding how it is currently wired, both switches and charging.
Your boat is a little out of my familiarity with rigging and general system requirements but starting and operation duties should be able to be combined under a single battery while the alternator charging can be sent another direction. On the other hand, a recreational 47 should have enough room to add more batteries without touching the existing system and not be significantly impacted by an extra 150# of lead.
A point to stress, standard battery chargers like the Promariner WILL BURN UP if attempting to play an amplified stereo while charging, especially with discharged batteries. A Power Supply is the correct tool for the job to power, charge and maintain a battery (within the ratings of that power supply) The 55amp and two batteries (or one big 8D) should handle the transient draws of those two ampifiers.
As with anytime a PS will be used, it is better to start the PS earlier in the day if you know it is going to be a long, hard day of playing. It still strains the PS to try to maintain adequate voltage with a depleted battery.
03-02-2015 | 01:07 PM
#32
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 6
From: Long Island, NY
I don't think you'll be happy with the 500/3 on the sub, 180 watts just won't get it moving very well. If it were me I'd go with the 800/8 for the cockpit and cabin speakers and a 600/1 for the sub, this gives the same 75 to each of the 8 speakers, plus 400 to the sub. That extra 220 watts to the sub will make all the difference. This would give you a simple 2 amp setup with good sound quality and a noticeable low end. JL subs can always handle more power than they're rated for I had a 8W3 in my truck for 3 years on 400 watts and never had an issue. I bring that up because the 8W3 and 10IB5 have similar power ratings. If it's setup correctly and you don't just turn the gains all the way up it will last for years without issue. By the way, I run my stuff extremely hard.
03-02-2015 | 01:09 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 6
From: Long Island, NY
Should sound ok. Depending on your sound preference, a sub with enclosure will deliver significantly better bass. Maybe not important, just a comment.
Really need to spend some time understanding how it is currently wired, both switches and charging.
Your boat is a little out of my familiarity with rigging and general system requirements but starting and operation duties should be able to be combined under a single battery while the alternator charging can be sent another direction. On the other hand, a recreational 47 should have enough room to add more batteries without touching the existing system and not be significantly impacted by an extra 150# of lead.
A point to stress, standard battery chargers like the Promariner WILL BURN UP if attempting to play an amplified stereo while charging, especially with discharged batteries. A Power Supply is the correct tool for the job to power, charge and maintain a battery (within the ratings of that power supply) The 55amp and two batteries (or one big 8D) should handle the transient draws of those two ampifiers.
As with anytime a PS will be used, it is better to start the PS earlier in the day if you know it is going to be a long, hard day of playing. It still strains the PS to try to maintain adequate voltage with a depleted battery.
Really need to spend some time understanding how it is currently wired, both switches and charging.
Your boat is a little out of my familiarity with rigging and general system requirements but starting and operation duties should be able to be combined under a single battery while the alternator charging can be sent another direction. On the other hand, a recreational 47 should have enough room to add more batteries without touching the existing system and not be significantly impacted by an extra 150# of lead.
A point to stress, standard battery chargers like the Promariner WILL BURN UP if attempting to play an amplified stereo while charging, especially with discharged batteries. A Power Supply is the correct tool for the job to power, charge and maintain a battery (within the ratings of that power supply) The 55amp and two batteries (or one big 8D) should handle the transient draws of those two ampifiers.
As with anytime a PS will be used, it is better to start the PS earlier in the day if you know it is going to be a long, hard day of playing. It still strains the PS to try to maintain adequate voltage with a depleted battery.
03-02-2015 | 01:29 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 6
From: Long Island, NY
I would have someone familiar with marine setups figure out your current battery switch configuration and determine alternatives.
You really only need one start battery while directing the alt output from engine 2 to the house bank. Worst case, the genny start with little juice and with the power supply, can quickly charge any battery bank.
A battery per amp is a good rule of thumb for moderate cove playing.
You have he luxury of a genny. I would look at installing a power supply (powerful charger that can continue charging batteries while playing. do that with a regular charger and it will burn up) Check out Iota DLS-55IQ4.
Wet sounds 6.5 would be a nice sounding in-boat. The cone does have more excursion than most speakers which may be a problem depending how you mount the speaker or how the custom grills attach.
IF you find you cant hear tunes while running or lack while coved, consider the Krypt 6.5. It is a mild compression horn. I say mild because the cross over cuts some of the sharpness often found in a horn. Also, your lower traditional mounting locations are not conducive to highs which travel in a straight line. Thus the extra powered horns help get the sound up. They do need 150watts each. They do require the black grill that comes with and are as deep as a tall boy can so depth should be considered. Also, for best midbass they need an enclosure which can be modified from standard car audio speaker baffles.
You really only need one start battery while directing the alt output from engine 2 to the house bank. Worst case, the genny start with little juice and with the power supply, can quickly charge any battery bank.
A battery per amp is a good rule of thumb for moderate cove playing.
You have he luxury of a genny. I would look at installing a power supply (powerful charger that can continue charging batteries while playing. do that with a regular charger and it will burn up) Check out Iota DLS-55IQ4.
Wet sounds 6.5 would be a nice sounding in-boat. The cone does have more excursion than most speakers which may be a problem depending how you mount the speaker or how the custom grills attach.
IF you find you cant hear tunes while running or lack while coved, consider the Krypt 6.5. It is a mild compression horn. I say mild because the cross over cuts some of the sharpness often found in a horn. Also, your lower traditional mounting locations are not conducive to highs which travel in a straight line. Thus the extra powered horns help get the sound up. They do need 150watts each. They do require the black grill that comes with and are as deep as a tall boy can so depth should be considered. Also, for best midbass they need an enclosure which can be modified from standard car audio speaker baffles.
03-02-2015 | 02:53 PM
#35
Registered
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
I like good clean sound and I also like bass. You will get double the output to your ear by doubling the wattage to the sub, so my answer is yes you need the extra power. My current truck has the JL 1000/5 with the front 2 channels bridged to send 200 watts to Focal KRX2's in the front and 600 watts to a 12TW3. I also think that headroom is always a good thing. It is easier to blow a speaker by not running enough power than it is to blow it from overpowering it. Headroom in a stereo is never a bad thing. If it were me, I'd spend the extra $100 or so to do it right the first time.
03-02-2015 | 09:19 PM
#36
Registered
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 3
From: Miami Beach
I agree with Tommy1005 better to have excess power than just enough, a single SD6 would be even better. 145w available to each speaker, and 585 to the sub, you may not need it all, but it's one amp instead of two and you certainly won't blow any speakers from distortion.
03-02-2015 | 10:21 PM
#37
Registered
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 2
From: dfw texas
Looks like a triple engine fountain if that first pic is your boat.if its rigged for offshore redundancy. You should have 3 alts.charging 3 seperate batteries with the 3rd possibly being up closer to the cabin by the ac unit you have a big huge battery bank charger somewhere ive run them while gojng all the way live with the stereo problem is you will often pick up noise from the charger when its in full amp mode .if your cabin goodies exept backlighting take the genset it wouldnt be hard to flip flop some assigned battery wiring for bildge k plane ect to eng battery run your amps from locker battery if its on same side ...only use 1 power and ground cable to distribution block by amps . If your dead set on jl audio you heard it here first .2 300.4 for your 8 speaks and whatever for your sub . A 500.1 ,maybe 750.1 dont know what kind of sub you have . If you put a w3 w6 w7 in ther e
03-02-2015 | 10:25 PM
#38
Registered
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 2
From: dfw texas
Make sure the sun stays off that foam surround . A little more wiring ,but if the power supply fails in one of those amps and they do , you will still have some sound to hold you over. And class d for sub channel is where its at for most boat guys
03-03-2015 | 05:38 AM
#40
Registered
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 437
Likes: 26
From: New England
I have a dumb question...With all this talk about adding multiple amps, is it ok to hook up the ground from a second amp to the ground of the first amp? Or do you need to run a completely independent ground to the second amp?
