Recommend me a new stereo...
03-03-2015 | 06:09 AM
#41
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From: Long Island, NY
I'm connecting the ground from the battery and the grounds from the amps to a bus bar. I wouldn't daisy chain the grounds..
03-03-2015 | 06:15 AM
#42
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From: Long Island, NY
Looks like a triple engine fountain if that first pic is your boat.if its rigged for offshore redundancy. You should have 3 alts.charging 3 seperate batteries with the 3rd possibly being up closer to the cabin by the ac unit you have a big huge battery bank charger somewhere ive run them while gojng all the way live with the stereo problem is you will often pick up noise from the charger when its in full amp mode .if your cabin goodies exept backlighting take the genset it wouldnt be hard to flip flop some assigned battery wiring for bildge k plane ect to eng battery run your amps from locker battery if its on same side ...only use 1 power and ground cable to distribution block by amps . If your dead set on jl audio you heard it here first .2 300.4 for your 8 speaks and whatever for your sub . A 500.1 ,maybe 750.1 dont know what kind of sub you have . If you put a w3 w6 w7 in ther e
03-03-2015 | 07:10 AM
#43
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I agree with Tommy1005 better to have excess power than just enough, a single SD6 would be even better. 145w available to each speaker, and 585 to the sub, you may not need it all, but it's one amp instead of two and you certainly won't blow any speakers from distortion.
03-03-2015 | 09:30 AM
#45
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From: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
Iota is not spark shielded, however you can install it in your cabin with the amps and connect to the distribution block I will talk about below.
The 55amp is maximum of the cheaper options. They have a 75 and 90 (I personally use the 90). They take a $100 price jump from the others so I have to assume there is a significant change in durable internals from the 55 to 75. I have used 45/55 for others with two amps/two batteries. If you feel your system might grow (as I think you will because a single 10" IB sub pretty much sucks for cove partying IMO) you might go ahead and spend the extra 100 for long term durability and expansion if planning to keep the boat.
You want the IQ4 regulated sub-model for charging.
1/0 power and ground is run from the battery bank up to amp install area. Large fuse 1-2' away from battery.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...s-fleks-kable/ Do not use the cheaper CCA given the anticipated future heavier load and salt environment.
Use a distribution block (I prefer fused) to split power to amps.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...bution-block-/
This unit will give you expansion and flexibility.
I would run a 10-12 ga power and ground directly to HU from this power source to avoid any ground loop (hum/hiss) issues. The switched power lead can stay as it is.
4 ga wire from distribution block to amps.
4 ga from power supply to distribution block.
Same wire referenced above in 4ga.
Think it is getting expensive? the 1/3 rule applies in audio. speakers 1/3, amps 1/3, power delivery 1/3. Or consider (in general) you will spend the same amount on speakers as you do amps as you do power delivery.
Batteries - yes, in general you need one standard battery per amp minimum. The bank is a power reservoir to draw from and 1 standard 31/27 series is not enough. In general, less larger batteries will be stronger than more smaller batteries. A single 8d or two 6v golf cart are better than a string of standard batteries.
IF those batteries are not "cool" enough for an open engine bay or you like to really romp in the rough which could break up standard battery plates; Stepping up your game to XS or Kinetic may fill the niche (and drain the wallet) A single HC3800 or XP3000 should cover you for now.
Last edited by ChargeIt; 03-03-2015 at 09:43 AM.
03-03-2015 | 11:25 AM
#46
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From: Long Island, NY
http://www.amazon.com/DLS-55-AUTOMAT...wer+supply+iq4
Iota is not spark shielded, however you can install it in your cabin with the amps and connect to the distribution block I will talk about below.
The 55amp is maximum of the cheaper options. They have a 75 and 90 (I personally use the 90). They take a $100 price jump from the others so I have to assume there is a significant change in durable internals from the 55 to 75. I have used 45/55 for others with two amps/two batteries. If you feel your system might grow (as I think you will because a single 10" IB sub pretty much sucks for cove partying IMO) you might go ahead and spend the extra 100 for long term durability and expansion if planning to keep the boat.
You want the IQ4 regulated sub-model for charging.
No bus bar is needed for this kind of (relatively) low power system.
1/0 power and ground is run from the battery bank up to amp install area. Large fuse 1-2' away from battery.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...s-fleks-kable/ Do not use the cheaper CCA given the anticipated future heavier load and salt environment.
Use a distribution block (I prefer fused) to split power to amps.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...bution-block-/
This unit will give you expansion and flexibility.
I would run a 10-12 ga power and ground directly to HU from this power source to avoid any ground loop (hum/hiss) issues. The switched power lead can stay as it is.
4 ga wire from distribution block to amps.
4 ga from power supply to distribution block.
Same wire referenced above in 4ga.
Think it is getting expensive? the 1/3 rule applies in audio. speakers 1/3, amps 1/3, power delivery 1/3. Or consider (in general) you will spend the same amount on speakers as you do amps as you do power delivery.
Batteries - yes, in general you need one standard battery per amp minimum. The bank is a power reservoir to draw from and 1 standard 31/27 series is not enough. In general, less larger batteries will be stronger than more smaller batteries. A single 8d or two 6v golf cart are better than a string of standard batteries.
IF those batteries are not "cool" enough for an open engine bay or you like to really romp in the rough which could break up standard battery plates; Stepping up your game to XS or Kinetic may fill the niche (and drain the wallet) A single HC3800 or XP3000 should cover you for now.
Iota is not spark shielded, however you can install it in your cabin with the amps and connect to the distribution block I will talk about below.
The 55amp is maximum of the cheaper options. They have a 75 and 90 (I personally use the 90). They take a $100 price jump from the others so I have to assume there is a significant change in durable internals from the 55 to 75. I have used 45/55 for others with two amps/two batteries. If you feel your system might grow (as I think you will because a single 10" IB sub pretty much sucks for cove partying IMO) you might go ahead and spend the extra 100 for long term durability and expansion if planning to keep the boat.
You want the IQ4 regulated sub-model for charging.
No bus bar is needed for this kind of (relatively) low power system.
1/0 power and ground is run from the battery bank up to amp install area. Large fuse 1-2' away from battery.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...s-fleks-kable/ Do not use the cheaper CCA given the anticipated future heavier load and salt environment.
Use a distribution block (I prefer fused) to split power to amps.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...bution-block-/
This unit will give you expansion and flexibility.
I would run a 10-12 ga power and ground directly to HU from this power source to avoid any ground loop (hum/hiss) issues. The switched power lead can stay as it is.
4 ga wire from distribution block to amps.
4 ga from power supply to distribution block.
Same wire referenced above in 4ga.
Think it is getting expensive? the 1/3 rule applies in audio. speakers 1/3, amps 1/3, power delivery 1/3. Or consider (in general) you will spend the same amount on speakers as you do amps as you do power delivery.
Batteries - yes, in general you need one standard battery per amp minimum. The bank is a power reservoir to draw from and 1 standard 31/27 series is not enough. In general, less larger batteries will be stronger than more smaller batteries. A single 8d or two 6v golf cart are better than a string of standard batteries.
IF those batteries are not "cool" enough for an open engine bay or you like to really romp in the rough which could break up standard battery plates; Stepping up your game to XS or Kinetic may fill the niche (and drain the wallet) A single HC3800 or XP3000 should cover you for now.
03-03-2015 | 12:46 PM
#49
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Posts: 1,754
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From: Long Island, NY
If that is correct, I will have to install the PS in the cabin and somehow tap that into my AC power...
Last edited by HyFive578; 03-03-2015 at 12:49 PM.
03-03-2015 | 01:43 PM
#50
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,332
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From: dfw texas
Your distribution block is like a heavy duty bus bar .if you keep infinite baffle sub it will be more efficient just seal it properly to isolate front and rear sound waves .you could probably throw 3 kicker class d amps in there for well under a thou a 25$ rubber stumpy antenna reseal enclosure (prob seat cushions silicone where seat frame sits ect) and be flat out blown away by how much better it sounds .8 speakers and a $100 amp and sub ,in a 47'boat ,you dont know what your missing .when and if you ever get bored with that you can always roll up to the 2500$ system. Buy a 15$ led volt display to monitor your batt levels if your going to be doing serious party cove jamming
