Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > Fiberglass and Paint
Adding drop in bow rider in Daytona >

Adding drop in bow rider in Daytona

Notices

Adding drop in bow rider in Daytona

Thread Tools
 
Old 04-26-2014, 09:46 AM
  #11  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by glassdave
dont know if I've seen any kits but its not really to tough to build from scratch. theres been a couple guys on here that tackled it with pretty good success.
I have read through several threads on this topic and searched and searched. Have seen post on factory originals, factory conversions and private conversions, but have not seen any threads detailing a conversion. Am I missing them? does anyone know of a thread or article that details the installation of a bow rider section into an old school offshore boat? I have already installed a true glassed in bulk head in the 272 between the cabin and v-berth. The old one was a curtain holder wedged into place and held in with 6 wood screws at the bottom. More for show than anything, popped right out. The new one is 3/4" ply tabbed in all the way around with a 1.5" ply header across the top. Deck is definitely stronger now. Bow rider conversion is next this summer.... Just too damn chicken to cut the hole!

Brian
\

My 5 kids are not getting any smaller and I know this summer we will have two extra children living with us all summer. The 272 Formula is a perfect size boat for us on inland lakes for floating and tubing and yet letting me have my mid-life crisis in a reasonable way! I am stuck with this boat and I also like it now, so
befu is offline  
Old 04-27-2014, 07:38 AM
  #12  
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Befu, I am now in the process of converting an old Scarab III (with GD as technical adviser). If you like me to CC you on our emails PM your address.

My only experience with glass work is on this boat. i.e. transom, stringers, bulkheads, floor, filling in port holes and deck hatches, and making a fairing. So far I'd say the complexity of this project is between tabbing in a bulkhead and replacing a transom. The hardest part for me is visualizing the upholstery work and making sure there is access to attach things properly. I'm trying to get the pads from the same company that does Sunsation open bows (HR Tech, JSN Holdings, Mcleod, seems to be all the same company?) and work with them on dimensions. At first there seemed to be real interest on their part, but now it appears to be fading (even after placing an order with them, which appears to be going nowhere), the jury is still out on them. I can't find anyone local in Dallas that can mold pads like they do in new boats... everything is all wrinkled or looking like it came from the 80's. Other companies I've called only have interest if I drop the boat off and leave an open check... and that's just to get on a 6 month waiting list.
jackhammer is offline  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:32 PM
  #13  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: US of A
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I found a few local fiberglass companies in the area so I am going to quiz them on the project and see where it takes me. Also, good point about calling Eliminator direct. I surely do not want to jeopardize the structural integrity of the bow. One would think there would be good market for this very thing....
Eliminated572 is offline  
Old 05-04-2014, 08:29 AM
  #14  
Registered
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: westville, NJ
Posts: 4,031
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

I think the best bet is to buy a bowrider. once you cut up existing boat and it has no resale value, no matter how well done. and well done job will cost as much as a bowrider.
dereknkathy is offline  
Old 05-04-2014, 10:58 AM
  #15  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dereknkathy
I think the best bet is to buy a bowrider. once you cut up existing boat and it has no resale value, no matter how well done. and well done job will cost as much as a bowrider.
Have to disagree on this one. I have seen 272's without power go for $2500 that we're in better shape than my 272. Remove power and drives and my hull is worth $2k on a dreamy day! 29' boat bow rider is going to cost some bucks and it still won't have flat glass in it! Would I pay to have it done, no! DIY is worth it if you are capable and love projects.
befu is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.