I agree .....

If they are ETA's they are circuit breakers. Not much bigger than a standard switch. I'll try to post a picture of one. Al J

I bought replacements from Formula. They are German-made, with integrated circuit breakers. And there are different load ratings depending on which device the switch controls.

When I looked behind the panel and saw how these things are wired, I decided a couple of $40 switches were worth the trouble of rewiring the whole panel.

Handful is correct. The "switches" are made by ETA in Germany and are circuit breakers. If you look at the back (or bottom) of the ETA breaker it has an amp rating printed on it. The reason they seem "sticky" in operation is that they are more than just toggling on and off. They are mechanically disconnecting the internal breaker. They range in amperage from about 2 amps to 20 amps I think. I've been able to find surplus or salvage units for about $15 each. When Formula changed to the curved windshield models (starting about 1985 with the F206) they went from a glass fuse panel under the dash with black plastic rocker switches to this toggle/breaker design which completely eliminated the glass fuses. Without putting fuses or breakers before any new non-ETA switches you install there will be no protection of the wiring or device on that circuit except the protection of the high amperage main breaker in the cabin or under the rear seat. Al J

.....R13-423 is the switch .... they are rated for 30 amps ....

http://service.sci.com.tw/htm/switch...LED.htm#TOGGLE

http://www.rapidonline.com/1/1/2248-...le-switch.html

Posting some pics of the dash switches



Note the circuit breaker rating on the back of the two ETA breakers. They TRIP automatically at that amperage. Plain switches will not trip at their rating. Switch amp rating is how much amperage the switch can take before MELTING or CATCHING ON FIRE!

My top picture in the above post is the ETA breaker-switch on the left and the incorrect lighted 25 amp rated toggle switch on the right. Middle picture shows the back of two ETA breaker switches. Bottom picture shows the old black plastic rockers from my 1985 F402 and the newer Carling rubber covered Rockers I replaced them with on the right. In the next post I'll show you what I had to do In my F402 to get rid of the glass fuses but still use the cheaper standard Carling rockers without the built in breakers.

These are pictures of the wiring rerig I did under the dash board on my F402. The F402 was amazing with all the wiring. The three wiring blocks all the way to the left on the bulkhead replaced the "Radio Shack" quality glass fuse blocks that were originally installed. I replaced those fuse blocks with the three rows of toggle circuit breakers you see in the left lower corner of the picture on the dash side panel. The large bundle of red wiring on the upper far left lead from the wiring blocks to the back of the new circuit breakers. This wiring is ONLY for the dash and engine controls! F402's and to a lesser extent F357's also have a separate "House side" circuit breaker panel down in their cabins as well.



Although the F311 is nowhere near this complex, It still would require rewiring the dash switches with individual circuit breakers in a similar fashion to insure your wiring and the switched device is protected. You do not want a fire!

Valuable information. Thank you for explaining all of this. I really didn't think those switches had breakers but you've proved that otherwise.

Here you go....
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/S-D...le+Switch.html