Had no issues ... what I did not like about those switches were the spade type terminals ... I use marine type connectors and heat shrink everything though and worked out fine ...the was a small hole in the spade and if you wanted to take the time I think you could have used a small machine screw .... I was thinking there was a breaker for the manual bilge pump in the panel under the helm .....I looked at the diagram but dont see it though ...I might have added a second breaker under the rear seat ...I upgraded that panel also ....m

I know this thread is a bit old but does anyone know where these switches / breakers can be sourced?

Illuminated Toggle Switches
http://m.delcity.net/store/Illuminated-Toggles/p_789206

Thanks Off but I think those are just switches and not the OE breaker type switches. Hoping to find the breakers...

My 311 had individual breakers under each switch besides the main so I was find to just replace with ones that were the same as in the link above. It did require some rewiring but that was fairly easy.

Your point is well taken. I only need one switch at the moment so I was hoping for simple component replacement.

I looked like crazy for an exact replacement and had no luck on that front. The good news is that the ones that I used were not real expensive. I think it was like 50 bucks for all of them. The other thing I remember about it was that it was real hard to remove the panel from the dash. You had to get it just right. Once it was out the new switches were smaller. This made it much easier to get the dash back in.

I'm looking for replacement dashboard toggle switches for a 1989 Formula 272 SR-1. I think used or salvage ones would be fine.


Thanks.

https://www.e-t-a.com/uploads/prodb/...1_e_060206.pdf

I spent 4 months re-wiring a Formula. It was caused by PO bypassing a circuit breaker and the wire shorting out to main ground wire.
It started in the harness down the left side of the boat and through the galley.
The boat literally caught on fire. Looking back, I should have just disconnected the trailer from the truck and let it become a science project on the side of the road.
Instead, I jumped into a burning boat and fought the fire. Because the wiring was trashed, it was not possible to use the hatch actuator to open the engine compartment to disconnect the batteries. So we had to manually lift the hatch (That's why you have the slip fit tube on the end of the hatch actuator) about 6 inches and disconnect the batteries that were still arching and relighting the fires.
Trashed every electrical component between the galley and the aft nav light. Except the TB-IV ignition modules.
Oh yeah, it burned the paint off the top of the fuel tank and fiberglass wall that the rear seat back attaches to.

Do yourself a favor.
Spend the $50 for switches with the breakers built in.