Can this mpi be used with a Alpha drive
09-28-2018 | 08:36 AM
#53
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,198
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From: KY
Oil circulation started in 1991 and had a single hole in the upper half for rams. B3 introduced in 1993 and had a extension plate to cover the second prop. Anode on prop shaft added in 1995 and in 1996-1/2 anti-ventilation plate extended for B3. In 1997 1/2 elongated hole added
09-28-2018 | 10:10 AM
#55
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Joined: Apr 2014
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The reason I ask is it takes longer than you think it will if you do it right. You will want to clean/paint the bilge check all wiring, clean all wire terminals, I replaced all of mine with glue/shrink terminals. Clean all of the support equipment and test for operation (trim tabs/pump) lift motor/solenoids, bilge pump/blowers, well you get the idea. Maybe some others that have done this will chine in and enlighten as to what was involved with their swap.
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary.
Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right.
I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting.
Gary
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary.
Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right.
I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting.
Gary
09-28-2018 | 11:10 AM
#57
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 1,457
From: Virginia Beach
The reason I ask is it takes longer than you think it will if you do it right. You will want to clean/paint the bilge check all wiring, clean all wire terminals, I replaced all of mine with glue/shrink terminals. Clean all of the support equipment and test for operation (trim tabs/pump) lift motor/solenoids, bilge pump/blowers, well you get the idea. Maybe some others that have done this will chine in and enlighten as to what was involved with their swap.
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary.
Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right.
I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting.
Gary
You probably want to pull the platform and check for rot inside of it. If you have thru prop exhaust you need to decide what you plan to do there, it is not as simple to swap to through transom as you may think. Be prepared for transom/stringer work if necessary.
Not trying to discourage you in any way merely pointing out this usually is not an overnight job, it takes a while to do it right.
I will keep looking for the parts you need and let you know if I find anything interesting.
Gary
09-29-2018 | 12:11 PM
#59
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 1,457
From: Virginia Beach
1989 7.4L 330 Bravo 1. Uses the drive reservoir set-up so that’s a plus.
The engine looks clean, and the drive not too bad (clean it up and repaint).
Check oil on both. You’ll want to drain some out of the leg to inspect for shavings and such. Having the drive gone through and resealed wouldn’t be bad.
Transom assembly will probably need a refresh (but that’s necessary on all of them). Replace the swivel pins and bushings (much easier to do off the boat). New bellows and gimbal bearings.
On the engine if you can get a compression test, that’ll be good knowledge to have. What’s up with rocker switch? What’s the boat and how many hours?
You’ll want to go through the exhaust. Fresh water isn’t bad, but any level of salt exposure will probably require replacement.
The engine looks clean, and the drive not too bad (clean it up and repaint).
Check oil on both. You’ll want to drain some out of the leg to inspect for shavings and such. Having the drive gone through and resealed wouldn’t be bad.
Transom assembly will probably need a refresh (but that’s necessary on all of them). Replace the swivel pins and bushings (much easier to do off the boat). New bellows and gimbal bearings.
On the engine if you can get a compression test, that’ll be good knowledge to have. What’s up with rocker switch? What’s the boat and how many hours?
You’ll want to go through the exhaust. Fresh water isn’t bad, but any level of salt exposure will probably require replacement.
