Dago Racing

Good stuff...........however I am shocked that some of the cabin upholstery, seats and side panels have to be removed.......that's crazy........still good stuff.......thanks for the info!

p4-33

I had to replace a 6' section on my 10-Meter, just forward of the windshield. Anything inside the boat, along the inside of the rub rail, is in the way.

Good news and bad... Fountain thru-bolts the entire rub rail. There's a backing nut every 6 inches. If there's wires there, they have a tie wrap over every other screw. You have to put a wrench on each nut from the inside, with someone on the outside working a power screwdriver. The ones with tie wraps - 2 nuts, and the first nut has to come off by hand first before you can screw from the outside. Use a walkie-talkie, and save your voice. Oh, and leave the ole lady out of the project! Bribe a buddy.

It's good that they stay put, built like a brick chithouse; bad if you need to replace it.

I can't imagine doing the whole boat. With twins, the only way I could see doing it would be during the winter with the motors out! And up in the beak area, yuck. A lot of folks have done it, but it can't be fun.

Good luck,
Brian

bryanspeedracer

Brian,

Sounds to me like you replaced the hardest section. I had to drill new holes and consequently, replaced the run wiring along the rail because of cutting some of the wire. Didn't want to chance a short.
Through bolting it is the only way to go even though it requires two people and twice the time. The old bolts were a chore to remove. The new ones went in well with a screw gun on the outside and a socket on the inside. Use the screw gun (light setting) to run the screw, tighten the nut with the socket. It is too easy to mar the heads of the stainless fasteners if you aren't carefull.
Good winter project, plan two full days or a week of fiddling here and there.
Do the project when it's cool outside so the neighbors windows are closed. You'll swear more than you thought possible.

Bryan

Gmoney52

Dago, I painted your boat! Thanks, I always take "vinyl" as a compliment! Ocean Spray graphics package; If you can feel the edges of each color overlay, then it is Imron. We were transitioning over to Deltron base/clear about that time so if it was used, the edges will be smooth. If that is the case, a razor blade scraper can be used to shave the topcoat of colors and clear to leave a thin layer of epoxy sealer on the gel that can be sanded w/ a DA and #500 ,followed by #1000 Hook-It discs and buffed w/ 3W # 5936 Imperial III compound to restore the shine like new.
GlassDave made an EXELLENT suggestion that will make or break this project; sand the corners of the blade to a radius w/#220 BEFORE "shaving" to prevent unnessary gouges that will take lots of time to rectify! I would have revealed this to you earlier,but I just upgraded my account and now I can see the pictures!
Please email me if you have any questions,( I like to stand behind my work) G$

Gmoney52

You don't want to go there! Not only does the whole cabin have to be disassembled, but most of the wiring harness is attached to the thru-bolts with a wire-tie or adell.
The insert is another problem. There is a plastic adhesion promoter and flexible additive available from PPG that would be IMO a better alternative.G$

blownincome

Did My rub rail this spring And was not threw Bolted Just stainless screws//
Bob

Gmoney52

The whole thing was screwed? How were the wire looms secured in engine compartment? G$

bryanspeedracer

The wire looms in mine are secured by machine screws that are specifically for the loom support, located in the "Rain Channel" where the engine hatches are recessed into.