I run my bypass return to the inlet of the water separator which buffers the pulses a little bit, never did plumb it to the tank. I have been told by "experts" that this won't work, however I been running 1050+ hp this way for 4 years and 950 hp before that for 3 years, with ZERO issues ,Smitty

Good info

In most cases going back to the seperator is ok. The bigger the filter, the better it is. It's certainly much better than going to the suction side of the pump. You are obviously very mechanically inclined and can keep an eye on fuel pressure and would know if something wasn't right. I have to make it dummy proof. It has to work great and work everytime. Most all of my customers have no mechanical knowledge. Most don't pay attention to the gauges like they should. I have to be sure that there is no way the fuel pressure will fluctuate. I know that returning the fuel to the tank works great and works everytime.
There is almost always more than one way to do something. This is what works for me.
Eddie

"Dummy Proof".....cmon now Eddie.....just what exactly are you insinuating?

so who's going to be the new "tuner" for the engine PCMs? . . .

Seeing how you're going to be getting new PCMs, are you going to do a dyno tune with a wide band?

Good job Ed, keep up the great work

I will be doing the building, dynoing, tuning, etc.
Eddie

Nothing personal buddy.

You got any pics for us Eddie from the hardware that you have seen in the boat , or concerns ?

As a matter of fact, I do. My biggest concern in the boat is the fuel system. The 90* brass fittings coupled together, along with the ball valves could def. be causing a problem.
I also don't like the fuel being returned to the inlet side of the pump. That pretty much never turns out real good. IMO, the best way to go is to return it to the tank.
The filter head is also pretty restrictive.
Here are a few pics.
Eddie