Sent 05 Ex to RF Powerboats
03-02-2012 | 10:07 AM
#628
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,351
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From: KC, MO
Yes...but you are forgetting the surreal series of events that got us/me here. Keep in mind guys, Im doing this for you entertainment. The boat has almost become secondary (OK..maybe not). Everyone needs someone to talk about when they refer to things they will NEVER do to a boat. I am your guy...LOL. When this is all said and done TRL505 will be synonomous with DONT DO IT! 
03-06-2012 | 01:40 PM
#630
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
Okay guys, sorry for the delay but it's time to get back on track. After having a laptop die and buying another one, I had a ton of problems getting a picture resizer to load. My antivirus software (Kapersky) would not let it through. I finally got it to work by temporarily disabling the antivirus, so here goes.
Both of the short blocks are together. It took a little longer than I expected since we ran into a few things. The blocks were FULL of burrs and casting slag hanging off everywhere. None of the threaded holes had ever been bottom tapped. All of the aftermarket blocks are super hard because they are full of nickel. This makes them much harder to tap. I was expecting the tapping to go much faster since I figured they had been tapped and we were just going to clean out the threads. Instead, we actually cut anywhere from 2-4 threads in each hole. That's expected with a new block. Also, we had a few pieces of casting slag that were so big that they were hitting the crank counterweight when we attempted to turn it over. Luckily we found it before we were ready to assemble them.
We also had to modify the seal adapter since it is really designed to fit a GM block. These blocks are made by Dart,but they are built just like a GM Gen VI block. They will take the stock dog bone lifters, 6 bolt timing cover, one piece rear seal, etc. The GM block has a small groove just in front of the rear main seal that holds the seal adapter in place. This Dart block doesn't have that groove to retain the seal adapter. In order to retain the seal adapter, we had to drill and tap the block and bolt in the adapter. We used an adapter since we got a crankshaft for a two-piece seal block. The selection of one piece seal crankshafts in 4.25" stroke is pretty limited. We went with a Howard's 4.25" crankshaft for a Gen IV block. For connecting rods were used a set of Callies I-beams with L-19 bolts. The pistons are JE inverted domes and the rings are Total Seal.
Eddie
These are before and after pics of the rear main cap after we opened up the oil passage. There are also some pics of the rings and pistons.
Both of the short blocks are together. It took a little longer than I expected since we ran into a few things. The blocks were FULL of burrs and casting slag hanging off everywhere. None of the threaded holes had ever been bottom tapped. All of the aftermarket blocks are super hard because they are full of nickel. This makes them much harder to tap. I was expecting the tapping to go much faster since I figured they had been tapped and we were just going to clean out the threads. Instead, we actually cut anywhere from 2-4 threads in each hole. That's expected with a new block. Also, we had a few pieces of casting slag that were so big that they were hitting the crank counterweight when we attempted to turn it over. Luckily we found it before we were ready to assemble them.
We also had to modify the seal adapter since it is really designed to fit a GM block. These blocks are made by Dart,but they are built just like a GM Gen VI block. They will take the stock dog bone lifters, 6 bolt timing cover, one piece rear seal, etc. The GM block has a small groove just in front of the rear main seal that holds the seal adapter in place. This Dart block doesn't have that groove to retain the seal adapter. In order to retain the seal adapter, we had to drill and tap the block and bolt in the adapter. We used an adapter since we got a crankshaft for a two-piece seal block. The selection of one piece seal crankshafts in 4.25" stroke is pretty limited. We went with a Howard's 4.25" crankshaft for a Gen IV block. For connecting rods were used a set of Callies I-beams with L-19 bolts. The pistons are JE inverted domes and the rings are Total Seal.
Eddie
These are before and after pics of the rear main cap after we opened up the oil passage. There are also some pics of the rings and pistons.
